Two Medieval Buildings - One to Go, One to Stay

    Stretching 4 stories tall, the Blue Crab Tavern is a 3-D printed building that I painted for RRB Minis

When I stopped by the Hubbard Ohio Gaming Guild last month, Rich Brown of RRB Minis & More had an offer for me. He knew that I wanted two of his 4'x4' cloth mats (he had been out of stock at the last show). He said he would give me two free if I would paint one of his 3-D printed buildings for him. It was a large, 4-story one, but I agreed. Since I would be painting that one up for him, I decided to work on a 2-story one I bought from him awhile back at the same time.

View of the front of the Bakery, which I was painting up simultaneously with the Blue Crab Tavern

The thought was that doing buildings is kind of an assembly line process. Base coat the walls, dry brush the walls, base coat the trim, highlight the trim, etc. Perhaps it would go faster if I did both at once? That meant six levels of building with two roofs, though. Now, I'm not 100% sure it was a good idea to do them side by side. Not only did they take up a LOT of area on my occasionally crowded painting desk, they also shoved aside other projects I was working on for a couple weeks. I think it would be a good idea to do two buildings simultaneously, but only if they smaller buildings. This was quite the undertaking!

    Although it is a very cool building, I agreed to paint it for Rich because the exterior was fairly simple

Rich's 4-story "commission," of sorts, is the Blue Crab Tavern from the Ferisia line of 3-D printed buildings which I have done so many of in the last couple years. They are quality prints, go together well (especially since Rich adds in pyramid shaped notches for the underside of one layer to slot into the one below).  Rich said he didn't have any big preferences for colors, but I still verified with him what my plan would be. I decided on a tan or off-white stucco for the interior walls and a faded, light blue for the outer walls. The stone trim, corners, balcony, and such would be shades of gray. The roof would be a typical red-brown/orange Terra Cotta. In fact, Rich's building was relatively simple, with fewer decorative flourishes. It was much easier to paint than the one I had chosen to do alongside it, the Ferisia Bakery. 

    Rear of the Bakery - the exterior was considerably more involved with wood trim & lattice work

Rich knew I like to start with a black prime, so had already completed that stage for me. I decided to do the stucco interiors first, with tan walls and a white highlight. I used a dark charcoal gray for the stone trim, dry brushing it with a medium gray then a lighter one. The floors were depicted as wood with nice, deep grooves in the grain. I did a dark brown wet brush, followed by Camo Brown then Khaki highlights. The roof portions were wet brushed red brown with a Middle East Flesh highlight. The wood trim around the roofs were also done in the wood recipe above.

    I was pretty happy with the sign and thought my little crab and lettering came out fairly well

There is a tavern sign attached to the side of the second level. I like how it is nice and sturdy and should not come off unless it is dropped from height. I went back and forth over what to do for the sign after I had done my usual wood recipe on it. I ended up texting Rich to see if he had any ideas. He said that the name of the Ferisia tavern was the "Blue Crab," so maybe I could paint one of those? I did a Google Image search with "Crab" and "Clipart." I've found if you put the word clipart in your image searches, the results tend to be more simple. I practiced drawing the crab with my Sharpie on cardstock before undertaking it on the sign itself with my Micron pens. I even practiced spacing the letters out before adding them to the sign. I used my smallest diameter black micron pen (.005) to draw outline of the crab, then painted it in with a fine brush. I'm very happy with how it came out, and so were Rich and Gwen (his wife).

    Interior floors to the Blue Crab Tavern - also a bit simpler in decorations than the Bakery

My own building was the Ferisia Bakery. I liked its "corner of two streets" layout and picked it up from Rich sometime in the last year. The building got its usual black base with spraying and brushing. I looked at my other buildings in my growing medieval town to see what pastel color I hadn't used yet. I had light blue, light green, pale yellow, and light orange varieties already. I did not have a pale lavender one yet, so decided to go with that. The interior would be a light orange. There was a LOT of wood trim on the Bakery! Several wall faces that had a diagonal lattice design on both the inside and outside. That would be fun...ha, ha! What was I thinking when I picked this building out? 

    Interior floors of the Bakery - the built in shelf was easier to paint than I thought it would be

Once again, I started on the inside. Rich had also printed up and included a lot of bakery scatter pieces, which I set aside to do later. Still, the Bakery's interior was also fancy, including a shelf with various containers on it, stone half wall dividers on one level, and plenty of windows. I did my best to parallel work on it with Rich's building, doing the Terra Cotta wall color first, then dry brushing it khaki, etc. I went with the wood trim next, doing my usual recipe. However, there were extensive stone elements inside as well. So, that was the next step, as well. Same three-color recipe as above. I tackled the shelving unit and the doors last. 

    Look at the Terra Cotta roofs of the Blue Crab Tavern & the cool 4th floor balcony

I also worked in each building's roof while I was doing the interiors. Rich's one was Terra Cotta, as I mentioned, but the Bakery had wood shingle. I did it in a lighter wood, starting with a medium to light wood color, dry brushing it khaki, and then doing a very light lavender highlight. The idea is that the shingles for the bakery's roof were once solid purple, but faded from sun bleaching over the years. I hope the effect came out subtle. This roof also had extensive wood trim receiving the usual treatment, color-wise.

    Bakery's wood tile roofs - I wanted the lavender paint to look like it had faded and mostly chipped off

The exterior was essentially a repeat of the interior, except less cramped for my brush and quicker to do. Here is where the Bakery really began to lag behind the Tavern. I had a deadline looming, and needed to deliver Rich's building to him by Advance the Colors, Oct. 9-10. So, I intentionally set is aside on some mornings, knowing if my own building didn't get done by the con then no biggie! All in all, I am happy with the Bakery, too. I like that it doesn't have to be a bakery and can be any two story medieval building I desire. I think sometime in late October I want to pull out all of my Medieval buildings and set up photo shoot for them. Look forward to that soon!

    2nd Story balcony of the Blue Crab Tavern - for rent to private parties, perhaps?

What else is on my painting table? Once all the ATC projects were cleared off, I had zero miniatures primed and ready to go. The Knights and Priests had been "old" miniatures, so it was time for something new. I glanced through my list on my iPhone and chose the two sprues of 8 Werewolves I'd purchased from Firelands Games at Daycon earlier this year. They are from Wargames Atlantic, I believe. I also have primed up and ready to paint the five spider hole Viet Cong I got from Discount Hobbies 3-D printing. Bringing up the rear are five Robot Legion figures from Hydra Miniatures. I have already trimmed them off their metal bases and glued them to cardboard for painting. Terrain-wise, I have started on the 3-D printed mangrove trees that my Sunday Night Gaming friend Mike W created for me. Lots to keep me busy over the next couple weeks!

    I liked the odd 'corner of the block' shape of the Ferisia Bakery, and apparently so do these citizens!

MINIATURES Acquired vs. Painted Tally for 2026

• Miniatures acquired in 2026: 234
• Miniatures painted in 2026: 211

TERRAIN Acquired vs. Painted Tally for 2026

• Terrain acquired in 2026: 22
• Terrain painted in 2026: 39

SCATTER Acquired vs. Painted Tally for 2026

• Scatter acquired in 2026: 50
• Scatter painted in 2026: 75

 

    Final look at the entrance to the Blue Crab Tavern, with its bronze door and horse hitching rings

Minaret (or Observatory?) and Butcher's Stall

    My medieval/fantasy town just got a new building -- a minaret...or observatory??

At Historicon, I picked up this 3-D printed Arab Mosque Minaret from my friend Ron at Diabolical Terrain. I thought it would look great in my medieval city -- maybe as an observatory instead of a minaret? It would definitely be a change of pace in styles of buildings, but it's stone texture would make it fit in, as well. I also picked up this Street Bucher Shop from the Shantytown line that my buddy Kirk at Miniature Building Authority makes. Although it is a fraction of the size of the minaret, it has so many details that it would end up taking twice as long to paint up!

    This mosque minaret from Diabolical Terrain is TALL -- 15.5" from bottom to crescent!

Let's start with the minaret, though. It comes in several pieces -- a hexagonal base section, a round upper section, and the rooftop. Although I glued the roof to the upper section, I decided not to permanently attach the two tower sections together. It is really tall (15.5"), and I felt it would be both difficult to store and to transport that way. So, I drilled two holes in the bottom of the door pillars of the upper section and inserted thicker brass wire (cutoffs from my spears). I super glued those into the holes I'd drilled, then marked where those wires would touch when I set it on the platform atop the base section. I drilled matching holes in the platform so that the wire would fit into the top of the hexagonal base section and keep it stable while sitting on the tabletop. I didn't want some to bump it and the whole tower crash down on miniatures or other scenery!

    Birds-eye view looking down from the top of the tower to the streets far below

Once this was done, I primed the entire structure with Krylon Fusion Matte Black, and followed that up with my usual 50/50 mix of acrylic black paint and water. I had decided to go with a gray stone look so that it would match the rest of my growing medieval town. I did a dark gray wetbrush over the black, and then followed that up with a medium gray dry brush on the stones. I did a final highlighting with a very light gray in a few spots where the sun might strike the structure most noticeably. 

 

    My medieval/fantasy town just got a new building -- a minaret...or perhaps an observatory?

Now it was time to decorate it! Mosques and minarets in Islamic architecture are usually always fancy. Blue seems to be an almost required color, so I went with bright coral blue and very light green. I did these in an alternating pattern on the stone archways all around the building, so the pillars of stone went blue-green-blue, etc. This was definitely the most time consuming part of this model. It was worth the effort, though. As I finished more and more of the archways, I began to be happier and happier with how it was turning out. Once all the blue and green decoration was complete and dry, I did a very light gray dry brushing of those colors to make it look a little weathered. I didn't want it to look chipped and falling apart or abandoned -- just a little more sun-bleached. 

    I took advantage of some 'blurry detail' on the sides to cover it with moss growing up the tower

I'd noticed while dry brushing that the detail on two faces of the lower hexagon was more blurred. Almost like it was hot and had melted. However, my friend Mike S pointed out that perhaps the lower, hexagonal section of the model was originally intended to be a corner tower. And the smoother sides were where they joined the walls? Perhaps -- I had not considered that! I'll ask Ron when I see him in October (he will be coming, as usual, to Advance the Colors 2026 in Springfield, OH. Anyway, I decided to disguise this intentional or unintentional blurring by going over this area with Dirty Down Moss Effect. Once dry, I painted white glue onto about half of the mossy area and added in Woodland Scenics Blended Grass. So, the "blurred areas" would actually be where vegetation was growing up the tower sides. I felt that was a good solution.

The last part of the structure to paint was the globe and crescent atop the minaret. When I bought it from Ron, I was thinking of sawing that off and putting something more generic atop the roof so it could be something besides a minaret. However, a crescent works very well for an observatory, too, doesn't it? I painted both Iron Wind Metals Ancient Bronze first. I gave them a gold highlight, and then added an even brighter metallic yellow light shining metal effect on the uppermost parts. Once dry, I gave them a black vehicle wash to "blend" the highlighting together and give it a less pristine look. All in all, the minaret ended up taking very little time to paint, as it turned out. So, my medieval/fantasy town continues to grow with the addition of a "observatory" (or minaret).

    This Miniature Building Authority Street Butcher Shop packs in lots of detail & features

The MBA Butcher's stall came in four pieces -- the three walled, open air structure of the stall, roof, metal wire with hunks of meat hanging from it, and a stump with meat and a cleaver atop it. I decided to be clever and paint the stall first, before hanging the wire, putting on the roof, or gluing down the stump. That way, my brush wouldn't have to get around or under things blocking my brush's access to the areas behind. The walls and roof of the stall appear to be corrugated metal applied in various patches. I like the effect of different colors of metal sheets on a run-down structure, so painted each separately, let them dry, and dry brushed them. Once the interior and exterior metal walls were done, I did the table, boxes, meat hanging from the walls, etc. I used Iron Wind Blood Red for the meat, and added in highlights of brighter red, too. The table, boxes, and such were painted brown as wood, with a few other colors here and there. 

    Perfect opportunity to break out my butcher figure to photograph alongside this cool piece of terrain!

Once the stall itself was completed, which took more than a week doing bits here and there, I attached the wire with its hunks of hanging meat. It set nicely on rests for it on either side wall. I painted it and then glued down the stump (which I had worked on while doing the stall). Finally, I did the bottom of the roof and glued it into place. The roof's top was also cast to look like it had several pieces of corrugated metal, so I had to do those individually and dry brush them, as well. There was one final step, though. I used my Dirty Down rust effect liberally over the interior and exterior walls on the corrugated metal. I've found if you brush some of the liquid solution on thinner and other areas dab it more thickly, it gives a nice variety of rust colors. Now, finally, the roof could be glued down (and rusted), as well. 

    I think the 'Rust Effect' from Dirty Down does great weathering & making things look run down

The entire piece got a black vehicle wash to give it more of a grimy, "street butcher" appearance, too. I used my Blended Gray Ballast for a gravel effect on the base, giving it a black wash also to darken it. That is the basing effect I go with more often in modern street terrain and scatter. DONE...finally! As I said, it was definitely a labor intensive piece of scatter terrain. Unfortunately, the corrugated metal means it can't really be used for my medieval town, but it will work just fine with any of the modern or even post-apocalyptic terrain that I have. It is definitely a nice looking piece -- and not expensive, either!

    This plastic toy well ended up painting okay - not as nice as items from MBA, of course!

The last scatter item on this post is a very, very old plastic toy well that has been sitting in one of my boxes for decades. When I was getting the Diabolical Terrain Town Well painted up, I was reminded of it. I decided to get it out, mount it on a round MDF  base, and prepare it alongside the others. It was painted with a mix of my base coat and dry brush method for gray stone and brown wood. I gave it some Steel for the metal mechanical parts and some flocking and leaf scatter on its base. Not the prettiest and most detailed piece of scatter, but it will be yet another water well for my growing medieval town. 

    Even though you can see the flaws close up, this well will look fine on a crowded medieval tabletop

This update finishes off the massive batch of scatter and terrain that has been crowding my desk over the last several weeks. Currently, there is no terrain or scatter waiting to be painted. So, I will have to remedy that situation first thing, tomorrow morning! Stay tuned for another update on the miniature painting kerfuffle (as my friend Allen likes to say) that I had this week. No painting disasters, but a moment of panic did ensue!

MINIATURES Acquired vs. Painted Tally for 2026

• Miniatures acquired in 2026: 210
• Miniatures painted in 2026: 179

TERRAIN Acquired vs. Painted Tally for 2026

• Terrain acquired in 2026: 14
• Terrain painted in 2026: 36

SCATTER Acquired vs. Painted Tally for 2026

• Scatter acquired in 2026: 34
• Scatter painted in 2026: 75 

Elven 'Guardians' - Creepy-masked Halberdiers

    Six 28mm, masked Elven Halberdiers from Warhost stand guard in the forest

I've always enjoyed the iconic flashback scene in Peter Jackson's The Lord of the Rings where Elrond and the Elves are receiving the charge of hordes of Orcs. As the enemy closes, the Elves whip up their halberds and then spin them downward cutting down the first two ranks of chargers. So, when I saw this pack of Elven Guardians on the Warhost website, I wanted to get some for my Dragon Rampant army. I wasn't 100% sure about the creepy faceplate mask, but figured I could decorate it up on the style of Late Roman or Early Saxon ones rather than an evil clown mask. As it stands, this will be the final batch of Elves for the army, though after my first game I am exploring different troop type options for fielding Wood Elves. So, you never know...!

    Probably the most heavily armored of the infantry, these actually painted up very quickly

Anyway, these actually went faster than either of the previous batch of spear or cavalry. They appear to be more heavily armored, so doing the base coat of Gunmetal Gray, then Bright Gold, and finally metallic yellow accent was the most time consuming part. Once that was done, the tunic and cloak seemed to be a breeze to finish. I stayed with the lighter green shade under tunic and darker cloak on top that I've been using in this army, so far. I did my usual pattern of dots on the colored borders for the cloak. This time, I added in a border on the bottom of the tunic, too.

    With this final batch of six, my Dragon Rampant Wood Elves army is now officially complete!

I gave them the usual shades of blond hair (where you could see it), and more brown tones on the equipment and shoes and such. I certainly have Elves down to a routine, by now -- almost 70 figures later! I'm definitely going to be taking a break from painting up DR! armies for a little while and give a little more attention to my other projects. That doesn't mean I haven't enjoyed watching my vision of Wood Elves come to life. They were always my favorite fantasy race, and I like how Warhost evokes the Tolkien mythos. Of course, my friend Keith -- who thinks the Orcs of my Bonefish Band look like Saxons (I know, but you just can't talk to him sometimes) -- will probably say they look like Huns or Celts or whatever! Honestly, I'm pretty sure he does it to "poke" people to get a reaction. Yeah, Keith, all those commenters on this blog and the Lead Adventure Forum are wrong -- they don't look Tolkien-like, they look like Uhtred Uhtredson...ha, ha! Maybe we can all join in together and say, "No, Keith, you're wrong...!"

    I decorated the armored face masks with my smallest nib black micron pen - how do they look?

The trickiest part of these figures was doing the face masks, of course. I'm not 100% sure how I feel about them, yet. I would honestly love to hear your comments whether the tiny Micron pen patterns make them look less creepy and more "Ancient race decorative," or what. Given a choice, I would have preferred that Warhost didn't sculpt the Guardians with their masks, but hey! I bought them anyway, right? I used my smallest nib black pen to do swirls, dots, and even a leaf petal design. After the decoration was done, I painted the eye slits in the masks. Then I did the eye itself -- so there was a lot of work done on those masked faces!! Hoping they look decent, but as I said, I'd love to hear your opinions pro or con.

 

    Another look at the detachment of the Warhost Elven 'Guardians' in the woods

The bonfires that the Elves are gathered around in these photos are more amazing 3-D printed scenery from my friends at Bad Goblin Games. I bought one each of their Large Bonfire and Campfire at Historicon 2026 a few weeks ago. They are printed in an orange translucent material. Typically, for their flames, I do a orange-red wash on it so that it softens the bright, plastic look. After that was done and dry, it was a snap to paint the logs with my usual wood tone recipe, and then the rocks, and finally apply the ground and flocking. I painted both the pieces identically, and once done, slid the supplied watch battery into the LED light holder. I pressed the LEDs into place from underneath the fires and voila! A very cool, flickering bit of scatter for the gaming tabletop. 

A few second video of the Large Bonfire flickering away, with an Elven Halberdier standing watch

So, now that the Wood Elves are officially done, what's going to be the next project to cross my painting desk? Actually, there will likely be three that I'm juggling simultaneously. Regular readers will remember my decision to alternate a batch of older figures (bought prior to this year) and newer ones (2026 purchases). Well, luckily the three projects fit neatly into that scheme! The older figures (and next batch waiting in line) are Pulp Science-Fiction figures from Hydra Miniatures. Originally, I purchased them to be a faction in games of Xenos Rampant. Since then, I've had an idea for a convention game using them that I think will be really cool. Building the board for it (a city in the clouds, ala "Cloud City" from The Empire Strikes Back) will likely be a late year or 2027 project. In the meantime, I want to get a half dozen factions for the game done using Hydra Miniatures amazing Retro Raygun line. Previous purchases of them give me enough for three factions, so that will be one of the things I'm working on.

Small, 3-D printed LED campfire from Bad Goblin Games

 The other faction is to finally paint up some reinforcements for my Viet Cong in games of Surviving 'Nam. These will be figs bought earlier this year from Gringo40s (but not 40mm scale...ha, ha). I will also continue to work on batches of figures for my Devilry Afoot games set in Franklinton on the American frontier. Yes, yes, I know it has been a long time since my first game...! I've been busy!! So, look for batches from those three projects soon, along with more buildings and scatter terrain!

MINIATURES Acquired vs. Painted Tally for 2026

• Miniatures acquired in 2026: 210
• Miniatures painted in 2026: 166

TERRAIN Acquired vs. Painted Tally for 2026

• Terrain acquired in 2026: 14
• Terrain painted in 2026: 36

SCATTER Acquired vs. Painted Tally for 2026

• Scatter acquired in 2026: 34
• Scatter painted in 2026: 69

Finishing Off My 'Pacific Huts' for Vietnam

    3 'Pacific Huts' from Diabolical Terrain's line of WW II 3-D printed terrain that I'll use for Nam

You know how it goes when you're running games at a convention or a game day? You think of something less than two weeks before the event that will be extra cool thing to add to the tabletop. Well, last week I thought that I should get another of the Pacific Huts that I bought from Diabolical Terrain done in time for Saturday's Summercon game day in Cambridge, OH. As I breezed along on the 3-D printed hut, I thought, "Hey! Why not get the other remaining two done, as well?" Sure enough, for a project that has more figures and terrain than I need for a game, I suddenly manufactured a deadline crunch! 

    Each of the huts is subtly different, with different textures & layouts, but same basic design

They DO paint up very quickly. The only assembly that needs to be done, as you may have seen in my post about my first Pacific Hut, is epoxying the posts the hut rests upon to its underside. You also have to glue the ladder to the log deck, and in my case, trim to size some craft sticks and epoxy them into each corner of the hut to hold the roof in place. Not sure why the model was designed without tabs or something to hold it in place, but this is very easily remedied. I also glued craft sticks to the back of the door, which for some reason, is flat with no wooden texture. I spread Tacky Glue on the back of the door, then laid enough craft sticks atop it so the texture of the door on the interior matched the exterior -- more or less. I trimmed the stick to size and then epoxied the door in place, too.

    I like the 'woven' look of the exterior and interior walls - also a good look at my craft stick posts!

Next, I took a gamble on a fairly hot day and primed the roofs and buildings with Krylon Fusion Matte Black. My brother, who lives in Nashville, TN, had preached that it is not humidity but the dew point that is more important. Another blog post I read online said it is the difference between the dew point and temperature that is the true worrying point for when you can spray miniatures or buildings and when you can't. The blog said that as long as there is a 10 degree difference between the dew point and the outdoor temperature, you should be okay. I wouldn't risk clear coating painted miniatures on a hot day with that formula -- I can wait. However, priming with a "rattle can" is worth doing, and so far I haven't had any problems following that formula!

    A look at all of the 3-D printed buildings and their thatch roofs - I love how they are raised on posts

One of the reasons these paint up so quickly is that there are only two surfaces on these buildings. Well, three, actually! The wooden posts and frame for the building are one and the woven wicker sides are the two. The third one is the thatch roof, but is done exactly like the woven mat sides with an extra step on the end. I do the wood first -- wet brush dark brown, dry brush Camo Brown, and highlight Khaki. Then I add in the wicker sides in between the wooden frame posts. This is done with a medium brown color called Autumn Brown, which I then dry brush with Iron Wind Metals Dun. For the roof, I add a final light gray highlight to give a more sun-bleached effect on the thatching.

    Using the Diabolical Terrain huts will give my Vietnamese village a more cohesive look, I think...

Once the painting is all done, I add a final black vehicle wash over the entire building. I like the effect this gives, make it look more dirty and lived in. For the interior floor, I cut to size a piece of scrap booking paper that I found in the local craft store. One final clear coat and the huts are done! I'll be using all four of the now completed huts I bought from Diabolical Terrain at the game day in Cambridge this Saturday. Although I like my scratch built jungle huts I made long ago for our Pulp games, they are a bit larger. These will fit better for the board size for Surviving 'Nam and I will likely use these more going forward.

    I added in a dirty looking scrapbooking paper for the floors, but otherwise usually don't do interiors

What else is on my painting desk? First off, the huts barely edged out the Elven Halberdiers I've been painting. Otherwise, I have another small batch of scatter terrain that is close to be done, as well.  For miniatures, I have primed the first of my Pulp Retro Sci-Fi figures from Hydra Miniatures. I am doing my factions in groups of five figures, which is more than enough for a multiplayer game of Space Weirdos rules. For the first action, I will likely paint them up similar to the two earlier ones I did -- one for my Five Parsecs from Home crew and another for my Star Wars rebels. Being a metal miniature, it was not destroyed in the great asphalt catastrophe when a friend accidentally dumped my box of miniatures I was using for our Star Wars campaign on the streets one night after gaming. Anyway, stay tuned for more updates!

    This one is almost identical to the first of the Pacific Huts that I did - very basic and open looking

MINIATURES Acquired vs. Painted Tally for 2026

• Miniatures acquired in 2026: 210
• Miniatures painted in 2026: 160

TERRAIN Acquired vs. Painted Tally for 2026

• Terrain acquired in 2026: 14
• Terrain painted in 2026: 36

SCATTER Acquired vs. Painted Tally for 2026

• Scatter acquired in 2026: 34
• Scatter painted in 2026: 69

    These buildings will be on the table for my games this Saturday at Cambridge 'Summercon'

'Pacific Hut' from Diabolical Terrain for my Vietnam Games

    From Diabolical Terrain's 3-D printed line of 'Pacific Huts,' here is another Vietnamese hooch

Last October at Advance the Colors, I picked up four 3-D printed Pacific Huts from my friend Ron at Diabolical Terrain. By the time I bought them, I already had enough Vietnam hooches or buildings painted up for the tiny villages or hamlets my players will encounter in games of Surviving 'Nam. So, the huts sat there staring at me accusingly from the shelf for more than six months. With my rules finally released, I decided to paint them. I figured I would do one first as a test rather than all four at once.

    Zooming in on the front porch & ladder, with 2 of my 28mm Empress Vietnamese civilians

This is Pacific Hut 5, which completely by coincidence, seems to be the simplest design of the seven Diabolical Terrain has for sale. Had I taken a moment to check out the four varieties I bought, I would likely have chosen this one, anyway! The posts that the hut rests upon come in four corner pieces, which you glue to the bottom of the hut. That was easy. I did mine with my normal "go-to," two-part, 5-minute epoxy. Next, I noticed that the roof didn't have any tabs to keep it into place or a way to slot in on top of the building. That was a bit disappointing, but easily solved. I measured and glued four wooden craft sticks into each corner, protruding up just enough to catch the roof and keep it from sliding off, but not enough to prevent it from sitting flush on top of the hut itself. After that, I spray painted it black on one of those rare, non-humid summer days in Ohio. I followed that up with a 50/50 mix of water and acrylic black paint.

    Side view of this Diabolical Terrain hut - though meant for WW II Pacific - works well for Vietnam

Looking the hut over, I decided that there were essentially only two materials represented on this model, not counting the thatch roof. There was the wooden components, including the support posts raising it off the ground, the deck, door,  and the smaller wooden poles that frame the building. Then there was the wicker portion, which were the most of the walls of these huts. So, really, I was looking at only three color schemes. I decided to do the wooden parts first, wet brushing them with a craft "Burnt Umber" color -- a very dark brown. The next day, I dry brushed those areas Howard Hues Camo Brown, and finally highlighted them in Khaki. 

    Interior of model showing my four craft sticks in the corners which nicely keep the roof in place

The following day, I painted the wicker portions a medium brown craft paint called Autumn Brown. I let that dry overnight, and followed it up with a Iron Wind Metals Dun yellow dry brush. I should mention I was giving the thatch roof a very similar treatment. However, I added a final very light gray dry brush on the thatch, that I did not do on the wicker. Once the paint on the roof and building had dried, I went over both with a black wash. The last step was to take a piece of scrap booking paper that had an interesting dirty wooden pattern and cut a rectangle of it for the floor. Once it was trimmed to fit the floor of the interior as best as possible, I affixed in place with white glue. 

    Rear view of the hut -- model will look great on land or on a riverside with it being elevated on posts 

Not only was a I pleased with how the Pacific (read: Vietnam) hut turned out, I was really stoked about how easy it was to paint up and get ready for the tabletop. There's something inspiring about cranking out nice-looking tabletop scenery that quickly. It is listed for $22 on the Diabolical website for 28mm scale (also sold in 15mm and 32mm), which I think is a fair price for something so practical and good looking on the table. If you are doing Vietnam or even World War II Pacific theater, I would highly recommend these huts. Check out the different varieties, some with porch screens or other differences. I will likely paint the other three up soon, now that I know how quickly they paint up!

    Last look at this 28mm model -- I have three more that I purchased from Diabolical still to paint up

What else is on my tabletop? I have my batch of five figures for the Lead Adventure Forum's 20th Anniversary in the flocking stage. I've also begun the final batch of figures for my Elven army for Dragon Rampant. I leave for Historicon on Tuesday, though, so there will likely be a holdup on my progress. Stay turned, though, and hopefully I will have more soon -- especially having played a game of Dragon Rampant on Saturday and Lion Rampant on Sunday!

MINIATURES Acquired vs. Painted Tally for 2026

• Miniatures acquired in 2026: 179
  
• Miniatures painted in 2026: 141

TERRAIN Acquired vs. Painted Tally for 2026

• Terrain acquired in 2026: 12
  
• Terrain painted in 2026: 29

SCATTER Acquired vs. Painted Tally for 2026

• Scatter acquired in 2026: 21
  
• Scatter painted in 2026: 62

Bad Goblin Games Scatter Pieces

    Scrying Pool from Bad Goblin Games -- very cool piece of 3-D with a flickering LED

In talking to my friends Brian and Liz from Bad Goblin Games at Origins, it made me remember that I have some of their scatter terrain pieces that I've been wanting to paint up. So, one day while at my painting desk, I grabbed two of them -- plus an old 28mm stone tomb which I believe is from Reaper. The two Bad Goblin items are their LED Barrel Fire and their Scrying Pool (which wasn't listed on their website last time I checked). Apparently, it was designed by Fat Dragon Games, but Bad Goblin has the license to print and sell them (thanks for the correction, Brian!). I painted all three of them black craft paint as primer. 

A video I took at x2 speed, showing the pulsating glow & color changes of the Scrying Pool 

Both the Scrying Pool and the tomb look like stone, so I did my usual gray stone formula on them. Black prime, Dark Gray wet brush, Medium gray dry brush, and then light gray highlight. They painted up very quickly, making me wonder why I let them sit on my desk for so long! The coolest thing about the Scrying Pool is that it comes with an LED light that pulsates with changing colors and three different tinted plastic disks to represent the surface of the pool. One is a swirling blue, another is a bubbling green, and the third is simply clear. You lower the disk of your choice onto the rim of the pool, while the LED and batter component is pressed up into the piece from the bottom. Watching the pool slowly change colors in a throbbing pattern was really cool. I can't wait for a chance to get it onto the table in a fantasy game! 

    This stone tomb has been sitting on my desk, waiting to be painted, for more than a year!

The tomb is decorated with skeletons and skulls, and obviously is the resting place of some evil being -- perhaps a Lich? Anyway, it's job on my desk for the past couple years has been to be a prop of sorts for something in the process of being expoxied or super glued. Ha, ha! Yes, something that took me less than a half hour to get ready for the tabletop, from brush priming through spray coating, sat un-started (but not unused!) for months and months. Not any more! It is inside one of my rolling carts that contain most of my scatter terrain from various periods.

    This barrel fire has a flickering LED, as well - obviously meant for modern not fantasy, though!

The final piece, the Barrel Fire, took the most time to paint up. It contains a variety of surfaces and items modeled on it -- sand bags, wooden crates, a giant wooden spool for cable, cinder blocks, a trash can lid, and more! Naturally, all of those took more time to paint up. I did my usual wood recipe for the crates and piece of wood leaning against the barrel. For the cinder blocks, I did gradually lighter gray dry brushes until I was happy. The trash can and metal debris I did in Iron Wind Metals Steel first, then did a Pewter brush-on highlight. I will likely use it in my post-apocalyptic or modern games.

    I like the various odds & ends modeled on this piece, such as the crates & cinder blocks

So, what else is on my painting desk? I am working on a special set of miniatures in honor of the Lead Adventure Forum's 20th Anniversary. These figures are about halfway done -- maybe more. The next miniatures that I do will be the final six Elven spearmen for my Dragon Rampant army. Of course I say that, but who knows? With Badger Games attending Historicon, there's always a chance I may pick up another pack or two of the newer releases that weren't part of the Warhost line when I made my purchase. The Elven Guardians pack has those long, halberd like things that Elrond slashes up the orcs with in the flashback scene in The Lord of the Rings. For terrain, I am FINALLY getting around to painting up one of the Pacific Theater Huts that I picked up from Diabolical Terrain at Advance the Colors 2025. Hopefully, I'll get them done before I leave for Historicon next Wednesday!

MINIATURES Acquired vs. Painted Tally for 2026

• Miniatures acquired in 2026: 179
  
• Miniatures painted in 2026: 141

TERRAIN Acquired vs. Painted Tally for 2026

• Terrain acquired in 2026: 12
  
• Terrain painted in 2026: 28

SCATTER Acquired vs. Painted Tally for 2026

• Scatter acquired in 2026: 21
  
• Scatter painted in 2026: 62

Two 3-D Printed Ruins - Desert Fort & Stone Temple

 

    I felt this church or temple ruin fit would fit in nicely with some of the others I have painted up

I picked up these two 3-D printed ruins from my friend Scott of Sword & Scabbard Games at Advance the Colors 2025, last October. They'd been patiently waiting on my shelf for their spot in the queue since then. I knew they would paint up very fast, so awhile back, I pulled them out, spray primed them, and set them down on the edge of my desk. There they say, a little less patiently, until last week when I took a few days and got them all prepped for the tabletop.

    The 'Desert Fort Ruin,' as I'm calling it, painted up very quickly -- spray, dry brush, wash & flock

Starting with the one I'm called a "Desert Ruin," I went back and forth whether to paint it up as stone or a more mud brick look. Figuring I have plenty of stone ruins, I thought it might be useful to have something to put on the table for a more desert or arid ground table. So, I spray primed it a Khaki color. I don't have a premixed 50/50 paint and water to get into the crevices for this color. So, I made sure to spray it as thoroughly as possible. 

    The flocking growing along the walls and in crevices gives a nice touch, I feel

Once it had dried, I dry brushed it a very light tan with a wide, square brush. Then I used my brown vehicle wash and brushed that on the entire ruin. I really like how it settled into all the grooves between the bricks, giving both shadow and a dirty look. I almost left it at that, but decided I wanted to put in some vegetation growth on it, as well. I took white glue and squirted it in the crevices and corners, wetting a brush down to help spread it where dust, dirt, and eventually plant life might sprout. I sprinkled on Woodland Scenics Blended Grass over it. Next, I added two different colors of green clump foliage here and there on the spots of grass to represent bushes or small plants that have taken hold. I was very happy with how it turned out, and now am just waiting on a day that I can clear coat spray it to call it completely finished.

    Some of my Saga Moors get some fresh air and pose next to the ruin - I like its tumbled down look

This stone ruin I picked up because it would go well with the European look of some of the ruins I've gotten from Rusty at Firelands Games. It is that in between look -- could be an old Roman or Greek ruin, or could be a medieval church. Since this one was going to be stone, I spray painted it Krylon Matte Black and DID go over it with my 50/50 water and acrylic paint mix. Then I simply did three layers of brushing. I began with a dark gray wet brush, then a medium gray dry brush, and finally a light gray highlight here and there. It looked good enough that I felt it didn't need a black wash to blend it all together. If the brush strokes are a little to visible, I feel a black wash softens them and blends the look of the model together. I skipped that step for this ruin.

    This stone ruin was almost as quick to paint up, but involved a couple extra layers

I added first Woodland Scenics Blended Grass in spots, and then the same clump foliage. Once again, I put the white glue in spots where dust and dirt might collect over time, leading to the growth of vegetation on the ruin. As I knew it, these two buildings were quick to paint up. I am glad I have this more church or temple like ruin to add to the ones I already have. Now, I can make a bigger area of a tabletop a tumbled down temple or church.

    One of my Saga Pictish crossbowmen peers through a gap in the upper story, on the lookout

So, what else is on my painting desk? I am getting closer to finishing the six Elven cavalry for my Dragon Rampant army. I have begun the special 20th Anniversary of the Lead Adventure Forum batch of miniatures, too. I almost pulled out another building for terrain to work on this morning. However, the Columbus is gripped in another heat wave, with high temperatures all week in the 90s.  Who knows when I will get a chance to spray prime a building in these Mad Max-style temperatures? So, instead I just grabbed some scatter I've been meaning to work on and primed them. I will definitely want to be spending time in my hobby nook in the basement with as hot as it is outside!

MINIATURES Acquired vs. Painted Tally for 2026

• Miniatures acquired in 2026: 179
  
• Miniatures painted in 2026: 135

TERRAIN Acquired vs. Painted Tally for 2026

• Terrain acquired in 2026: 12
  
• Terrain painted in 2026: 28

SCATTER Acquired vs. Painted Tally for 2026

• Scatter acquired in 2026: 21
  
• Scatter painted in 2026: 59