Monday, June 16, 2025

Ruined Building & Various Scatter for Flea Market Sale

    Two-storey ruined MDF building from Father and Son -- I really like the detail on the floors!
I'm continuing to crank out the stuff in preparation for having things to sell on my flea market table at Historicon. I had earmarked this MDF 2-Storey Ruined Building from Father and Son Gaming as one I had purchased, but didn't necessarily need in my collection. Much like the earlier 4 Ground ruined buildings, this one came out so nice I'm tempted to keep it and not sell it! I really like how it looks all painted up.

    Three of my survivors check out the newest ruined building that I prepped for the flea market
I don't know if it is typical for their MDF products, but there were no instructions included other than the photograph from two angles of the finished building. Unfortunately, for me -- Mr. Not a Puzzle Person -- it wasn't enough. There were three pieces I never figured out where they went. And I ended up assembling the walls "inside out," with what was supposed to be the exterior facing inwards. You might say that I "ruined" it, but honestly, I think it looks pretty darned good this way! I absolutely love the floor patterns that Father and Son have inscribed on the MDF. It really makes this building "pop," so to speak.

    This view shows the rubble along the base of each of the walls that I added to the MDF kit
The only modification that I did to the building was adding in rubble all along the walls. This step is easy to do. You just squirt white glue where each wall meets the floor and pour in tiny rocks or rubble. I used a bag of black rubble that I bought from Discover Games at Buckeye Game Fest. Then you tap off the excess that didn't make it firmly enough to where the glue was, and sweep that up and put it back in the bag or tub. It doesn't take that long to do and I think really adds something to the look of a ruined building. 

    Close up of the black prime, dark gray wet brush, & light gray dry brush I did to the walls
I did my usual method to ready MDF ruins for the tabletop: black prime, go over it with a 50/50 mix of acrylic black paint and water, and then wet brush dark gray and dry brush light gray. Once those steps are done, you are all but done with this. I decided to dry brush the floor in Wedgewood blue -- a very pale craft paint color. Then I took heavily watered down medium blue and painted it into the recessed floor designs. I'm very happy with how it came out. For the downstairs floor, I simply did a Terra Cotta craft paint wet brush over the tile floor. The different amounts of paint on the brush over the top of a primed black floor looks really nice.

    Also painted up 18 plaster oil barrels that a friend had given me long ago - I like how they turned out
I also like how this collection of oil barrels came out. They were cast from plaster and given to me years ago by my friend Tim Peaslee. They've sat in my unpainted scatter box for quite some time. This was mainly because I already had oil barrels from Acheson Creations and my pre-painted gas station set. Since most modern or post-apocalyptic gamers could use oil barrels, I figured why not get them ready for sale, as well? I primed them black with Fusion Acrylic Matte Black, then went over it with a 50/50 mix of black acrylic paint and water, as usual. Then I dry brushed them in various colors, which gave the a nice dirty look.

    Close up of one of my survivors guarding the oil barrels - good look at the rust effect I did
I decided to use my bottle of Dirty Down "Rust Effect" on them, too. So far, I've learned you don't simply paint this over an entire piece. It's best to pick out certain areas where rust might show up, and also to stipple it every once in awhile. Also, don't be afraid to apply some of it thicker and other parts more watered down. This gives different effects. However, I do think the effect is improved noticeably by doing a black wash over it afterwards. I was very happy with how these rusty, dirty barrels turned out. Once again -- stop me if you've heard this before -- I was tempted to keep them and not sell them in the flea market...ha. ha! I did base them on tiny washers to make them more stable on the tabletop and flocked the part of the base you can see with Woodland Scenics Blended Turf. What do you guys think? Would a buck ($1) a barrel be a fair price, or is that under pricing them (or too much)? Feel free to give me feedback in the comments.  

    3-D printed dumpsters from Sea Dog Game Studios that I also painted up for the flea market
The last things in this update are four dumpsters from Sea Dog Game Studios. These are 3-D printed items that I bought several years ago before I'd painted up the other ones I typically use in my modern games. In fact, I probably have too many dumpsters already, so these were definitely superfluous. What better thing to turn into cash than something you paid for years ago and don't really need, right?

    'What do you think - should we look inside?' - A closeup of the largest of the 4 rusty dumpsters
I gave these the same prime and 50/50 preparation that I did with the other two things in this post. I painted the dumpster itself a dark green, with a brighter Kelly green dry brush. The lid was left black with a medium gray dry brush on it. For some reason, I did not like how the Dirty Down rust effect worked on the dumpsters. Maybe it was the 3-D printed texture or the darker green color? Either way, I was unhappy, so went back to my "old school" painted-on rust. I painted speckles and blotches of rust in Autumn Brown. I then added fluorescent orange in the middle of the brown. Once the two colors had dried, I went over it with a dark black vehicle wash.

    Unlike the oil barrels, I painted this rust effect with brown, orange, & a black vehicle wash
I was tempted to put some labels, graffiti, or signs on the dumpsters, but I wanted them to be generic to tempt more purchasers, so passed on that. I based them up on pieces of styrene plastic and flocked them with Woodland Scenics Blended Gray Fine Ballast. I painted the ballast with a black vehicle wash to give it more of an asphalt rather than gravel look. I thought they turned out nicely. I am completely at a loss what price is fair to charge for them. Feel free to comment and give suggestions. The bigger one is obviously going to be more expensive than the three small ones. But what price?

    A final look at the Father and Son MDF building -- is $45 a fair price, you think?
That's it for this update, and possibly the last update for a week or so. I will be at Origins Game Fair at the Columbus Convention Center this week. I'm running my Viking Raid on an Anglo-Saxon town from Thursday through Saturday, this week. So, I'm going to be pretty busy and will unlikely get a chance to update the blog. There is a chance that the last batch of Viet Cong may get posted before then -- they're were just finished this morning. Otherwise, the last two batches of U.S. infantry in Vietnam are nipping at the Viet Cong's heels. They'll likely be done the week or so after Origins, too. I also have some ruined Buddha statues and a stone bridge that are pretty far along, too. Those are for the flea market, too. So, stay tuned! There may be a week or so delay in posts, but they'll be back on track soon!

    A last look at the oil barrels...is $1 each a good price? Could I get $2 each -- what do you think?

MINIATURES Acquired vs. Painted Tally for 2025

  • Miniatures acquired in 2025: 232
  • Miniatures painted in 2025: 117 

TERRAIN Acquired vs. Painted Tally for 2025

  • Terrain acquired in 2025: 21
  • Terrain painted in 2025: 40

SCATTER Acquired vs. Painted Tally for 2025

  • Scatter acquired in 2025: 93
  • Scatter painted in 2025: 100

Thursday, June 12, 2025

Sci-Fi Scatter & a HUGE Purchase

    I picked up this 3-D printed Sci-Fi scatter from Garrison 3D - look like they belong on a flight line
Well, there goes the Acquired vs. Painted in the Miniatures category...for at least a few more months! I know I have been telling people that 28mm Fantasy is next year's project, what with the scheduled October release of the second edition of Dragon Rampant rules. I had made a couple small 28mm Fantasy purchases, but was holding off on a big one until next year. You know what they say about the best laid plans of mice and men, though...!

    Not my paint jobs -- these images are from the Gripping Beast website to show you what I purchased
Jeff from Shieldwall Miniatures decided he not only was going out of business, but also wanted to sell a lot of the stuff he bought for himself. He reached out to me because of my purchase of the 16 Orcs during his final 50% off sale, and because we've kept in contact for a good four-plus years now. He was selling a boatload of Gripping Beast metal 28mm Orcs. He kindly sent me the breakdowns and some pictures. I reached out to my friends and got a lot of, "Sorry, not interested" replies. However, one friend stepped forward and was interested in going in with me. He was very flexible, and said he'll take as much or as little as I wanted from what Jeff was selling.

    A big chunk of my purchase were armored Orcs & Goblins, but it is hard to tell them apart
In the end, we decided to split the Orcs down the middle, pack by pack. When Jeff mentioned he also had metal 28mm Dwarves, my friend jumped all over that, too. I was good with just the Orcs and Goblins, though. In the end, here's what I ended up adding 87 Gripping Beast Uruk Orc, Snaga goblins, and Troll miniatures to my collection of "Miniatures Acquired" category. 

    Another look at the scatter pieces alongside my 3-D printed Imperial Stormtroopers
Even though this is next year's project ("Keep telling yourself that, Mike..."), there's a good chance that I'll be painting some of these up between now and the end of the year. Painting my Vietnam project went much faster than I anticipated. I have some other odds and ends that I want to do in the meantime, but I will likely start working on these guys this Fall. One of the things I want to mix in are some 28mm Sci-Fi civilians. Lead Adventure Forum member Simon (Nozza) does an amazing job sourcing various Star Wars civvies and I have a serious case of "Monkey see, Monkey do" when it comes to his Star Wars project. I will likely just use some of the Stargrave plastic figures for them, though. We'll see...that's after I finish off my Viet Cong and U.S. soldiers for Vietnam.

    These creepy looking dudes with little modesty are labeled "Uruk Trackers"
Speaking of Sci-Fi and Star Wars, I did finally finish these six pieces of scatter this week. I picked them up early this year at Siege of Augusta from Bryan at Garrison 3D. I painted the first one up nearly a month ago, and really liked how it turned out. However, all those metallic blue bands and turquoise glowing bits take a lot of time. I think each one takes a good hour to do, and that's after they've received their base coat of Gunmetal Gray craft paint! I plan on using these in my next Star Wars scenario using Space Weirdos rules. I think they 'll make good "flight line" arrays.

    28mm Uruk archers from GB -- these Orcs are the way I picture them instead of GW's cartoony style
So, what else is on my painting table, now? The last batch of Viet Cong is nearing completion, and the last and next-to-last U.S. infantry is also underway. I did the 50/50 black paint and water final step of priming for three Buddha statues of plinths, more than a dozen oil barrels, and the MDF ruined building that I will be taking to the Historicon flea market. So, hopefully you'll be seeing those soon! In the meantime, I have to finally record that big 28mm Fantasy purchase below in my calculations. So...much...lead...to...paint!

    GB has a lot of cool descriptor names for their goblins, like "Night," "Forest," and "Mountain"...

MINIATURES Acquired vs. Painted Tally for 2025

  • Miniatures acquired in 2025: 232
  • Miniatures painted in 2025: 117 

TERRAIN Acquired vs. Painted Tally for 2025

  • Terrain acquired in 2025: 21
  • Terrain painted in 2025: 39

SCATTER Acquired vs. Painted Tally for 2025

  • Scatter acquired in 2025: 93
  • Scatter painted in 2025: 78

Tuesday, June 10, 2025

Two More Batches of 28mm Viet Cong

    My latest batch of 28mm Viet Cong from Black Sun investigate a U.S. chopper they've downed
By the time the humidity here in Ohio was low enough to spray coat my third batch of Viet Cong figures, I was almost done with the fourth group. I decided to wait and take pictures of the two batches together rather than do separate posts for each. As I type this, the final three packs of 28mm Black Sun miniatures from the Crucible Crush line that I purchased for this project are in motion. Barring any kind of disaster, I should definitely have everything painted up soon. The rules are pretty far along, too, so you can look forward to play testing reports at least by July, I imagine!

    A V.C. RPG gunner and his assistant carrying reloads in a wicker basket -- very nice touch!
I am continuing to enjoy painting these miniatures. This project has reinforced for me why I prefer to paint metal miniatures over plastic or 3-D printed ones. I feel the detail is carved (or raised?) more on metal figures, and I feel they accept washes and dry brushing better. Or at least, they do for my inexpert level of painting! I have seen some master painters take what I consider muddy detail on a figure and make it into a beautifully blended work of art! So, maybe I mean metal figures are more "journeyman friendly," if that makes sense? 
    I continue to be very happy with the character and details of these miniatures from Crucible Crush

These two batches included the RPGs and Support Team pack. It includes two figures holding or firing a rocket propelled grenade (RPG) and one carrying reloads in a wicker basket (not OHSA approved, I imagine!). One of the others is holding a light machine gun (LMG), which I noticed when finishing this batch that is the only Viet Cong LMG in the entire line of miniatures. This is probably an omission that I'll have to fix with figures from another line, unfortunately. Most games are going to call for a higher percentage of LMGs than the current 1:25 ratio I will have for my opposition forces. Maybe I missed one of the other figures carrying something that could be used as an LMG? Feel free to check out the photos of Black Sun's four packs of VC here.

    I began mixing things up for the V.C., as far as uniforms go, with these two batches of figures
As you can see, I finally started adding some variety to the way I painted up my V.C. Not all are in the traditional "black pajamas." I really like how doing a shirt or pair of pants in another color livens things up and makes a group look more interesting. Crucible Crush themselves painted the figures in a mix of colors for their website photos -- not all in black. So, I think my artistic license here is justified. The final batch of V.C. which is on my tabletop will have variety, too.

    The lone LMG armed figure for the V.C. in the Black Sun range sporting his black pajamas
As I begin to work on my rules -- which my readers will likely remember will be an adaption of Ganesha Games' Sellswords & Spellslingers -- I think I may have underestimated how many V.C. that I need for my games. So, I am beginning to resign myself to purchasing more miniatures at Historicon this July. I need to take a look at which manufacturers or companies will be there that carry this period. I have to remember to bring along a mini with me so that I can compare sizes. As we know, not all figures from different 28mm manufacturers match! My friend Jim W has painted up figs from a number of different makers of Vietnam minis, so I will likely lean on his advice, as I did with this purchase.

    This shirtless RPG gunner was an interesting bit of variety, as was the squad leader with pistol
Since I am nearing the end of the painting portion of this project, it means I'll likely begin to mix in some more terrain for it, too. I purchased some Vietnam buildings from Miniature Building Authority at Buckeye Game Fest, and am looking forward to getting them on the table. They're a mix of 3-D printed and resin, so I think they will paint up quickly, as well. I'm also going to do some slightly larger jungle scatter pieces, too. I picked up the wooden disks to use as bases from the craft store the other day, so those will be coming soon, as well.

    Two V.C. check out the burning U.S. chopper that crashed into the jungle
Besides the last three packs of Black Sun Vietnam figures, what else is on my painting desk? I did finally finish the six pieces of Sci-Fi scatter that have been on my desk for three weeks or more. Now, I'm waiting again on the humidity to subside to clear coat to them! I have a handful of 3-D printed dumpsters for the flea market that are just about completed. I put together another MDF ruined building, also to sell. I have a plastic and styrofoam bridge waiting to prime, along with some Buddha statues on plinths, and more than a dozen plaster oil barrels. Those are all intended for the flea market at Historicon, too. My progress (when not impeded by humidity) continues to be going well, so I am satisfied with how retirement agrees with my hobby output!

    A final look at the 10 V.C. that I recently painted up
MINIATURES Acquired vs. Painted Tally for 2025

  • Miniatures acquired in 2025: 145
  • Miniatures painted in 2025: 117 

TERRAIN Acquired vs. Painted Tally for 2025

  • Terrain acquired in 2025: 21
  • Terrain painted in 2025: 39

SCATTER Acquired vs. Painted Tally for 2025

  • Scatter acquired in 2025: 93
  • Scatter painted in 2025: 72

Monday, June 9, 2025

Play testing an American ECW Battle

    My pikemen and musketeers in the field have the enemy pike depleted and outnumbered
One of my friends is running a game based on the Battle of Severn, 1655A.D., at Origins Game Fair, an upcoming convention in Columbus, OH. He wanted some feedback on his scenario, so I hosted him at my place on my large(r) gaming table to give it a run-through. His scenario called for an 8'x6' table, which we accommodated by having my friend Keith bring two small 2'x4' tables and adding them give us more depth. I also lent Jason two of fleece mats for the game, as well as a some fenced in fields. Otherwise, the figures were all Jason Stelzer's, and they looked nice, I thought. Most were painted by another friend, a Michigan resident named Ted Bender. Contact him if you need figs painted in the U.S. at a good rate (or contact me and I'll refer you to him).

Close up of the Marylander pikemen lining the edge of a field during our refight of the Battle of Severn

I have to admit I knew nothing about this battle beforehand. Apparently, it is the final battle of the English Civil War, BUT fought on continental American soil. Essentially, Puritan Virginians vs. Maryland Catholics, in an extreme simplification. Jason freely admits that accounts are scant on this engagement, so he is extrapolating typical ECW troops to this battle, leaving out the cavalry which would be few and far between in frontier America. Jason first gave us a historic intro prior to the game. Luckily, we had rounded up three players per side for the playtest, which is what his scenario called for. 

    Jason's dad Mike prepares to move his doomed Maryland center up while the commanders watch
The rules were Pikemen's Lament from the "Rampant" engine, which most of the players were fairly familiar with. One player was a complete newbie, though, and another had played only one game using the system, I believe. The rest had played Rebels and Patriots, Lion Rampant, and Xenos Rampant. Jason modified a few rules here and there knowing that, when running it at Origins June 18-22, he is likely to have players less experienced with the system. His modifications worked well and I feel would make the game more enjoyable for a new player (and flow faster). 

    The Maryland left wing opposite me prepares to skirt an enclosed field while advancing on my lines
I took on the role of Leonard Strong on the Puritan left flank. Jason gave each historical commander a special abililty or two that could affect the game. Strong's faith in God gave him an extra +1 to affect morale tests of his troops. I am pretty sure Jason used commander traits or abilities from the rules, as he referred to "1 point," "2 point," and "3 point abilities." In our other games, we have typically not used those. However, they seemed to fit well in with this contest of religion (and egos) in early America. My force had two units of veteran musketeers and one of veteran pikemen. We had the better quality of troops, but the enemy Maryland militia outnumbered us by a handful of units. For example, the commander I faced across the table had five units to my three.

    Some of Keith's troop at right take aim at the enemy marching across the field towards them
There were a couple small gentle hills on the flanks, but the most significant terrain was six enclosed fields across the center of the table. Jason said they would act as cover to troops inside when shot at. They would also act as an obstactle and rough terrain to movement. To even the odds a bit,  I decided my forces would hole up inside the field immediately to our front. I ordered my two musketeers forward into it. Meanwhile, the pikemen would loiter behind it, shielded from shooting, and able to move left or right to cover whichever side was most threatened.

    Zooming in close to look at Jason's 28mm ECW musketeers painted by the prolific Ted Bender

Luckily, we made it into the field and were set up before the enemy came within range. Of course, my closest unit failed to activate to shoot once the enemy came within our 18" range. Luckily, I was acting last that turn, and I convinced our overall commander Keith to give me the card that allowed me to act first and try again next urn. We were successful in activating to shoot that time, and inflicted a nice barrage of hits on the enemy musketeers. I ignored both the pikemen advancing on us and the harassing Native American skirmish infantry. My goal was to deplete my opponent's shooters before he did the same to me. I felt that was the only way to turn the tables on their superior numbers. My other musketeers shot at his other musketeer unit and inflicted hits, as well.

    My left wing near the beginning of the battle, musketeers entering the field while pikemen stand by
In fact, my dice rolling was slightly above average, which considering how it is usually my weakness, led my opponents to say that I was "rolling out of my @$$!" Well, yeah, when you're used to me rolling bad, and I suddenly don't, it may seem rather alarming! This was compounded by the Marylander side missing a couple crucial morale rolls. Our commander Keith, in the center, was able to hit a musketeer unit in their center pretty hard, and it failed its morale badly and routed off of the table. Then one of the musketeer units opposite me had that "Oops!" die roll, and likewise fled the field. I was starting to feel better about being outnumbered.

    The pivotal moment of the game as we prepare to send the depleted Maryland pikemen packing
Pretty soon, another unit in the enemy center dissolved. It was obvious that the Maryland center had been defanged as a threat. That allowed our center to help out on both the right flank and mine. Our right was having a bigger struggle than my troops were, though. Jenny, commanding the enemy left, battered one of Allen's units and sent it scurrying from the table. Still, Allen's wing hung on gamely, dishing out casualties and holding off the enemy attacks.

    I had only 4 enclosed fields, so Mike S contributed 2 of his with resin stone walls to enclose them
Things came to a crucial point on my end when the lead pike unit got close enough to charge my musketeers in the enclosed field. My pikes sallied forth first and slammed into them, preempting their charge. However, since we did equal casualties, my infantry were forced to withdraw. The Maryland pike turned and charged my musketeers, driving them back and inflicting the first casualties on them of the game. However, the musketeers reloaded and poured fire into the enemy pikemen. Falling well below half strength, they passed one morale check, then failed upon hearing their wing commander had fallen when a salvo sent their last remaining musketeer unit on that wing routing.

    The skirmish Indian allies of the Marylanders had very little effect on either flank of the battle
In short order, the Maryland attack on my troops dissolved. Their native American skirmish contingent had been harrying my pikemen with occasional shots and single casualties. However, seeing three of their five units in their command fleeing the field, both the Indians and their last unit of pikemen pulled back. With the enemy losing on our left and in the center, and a hard-fought stalemate on the right, we decided to call the game. The Puritans had held off the Catholic assault. Our greater training and experience (more expensive troops) had repelled the more numerous Marylanders.

    Another zoom in on the Maryland battle line and Jason's 28mm ECW troops

We all felt Jason's scenario worked out great. In Jason's previous playtest, the Maryland side had won. So, it seemed relatively balanced. Had my rolls not been above average, and had the enemy not botched a couple key morale tests, I believe the battle could have gone either way. Tactially, my decision to stay on the defense and use the enclosed field as a fortification to hold off the enemy, rather than marching to attack, was key, as well. Our center did a good job using the fields as cover, too. More often than not, we were firing at an enemy in the open while they were returning fire at us in cover. That one pip on a d6 was what we hung our defense upon and it ended up working. It could just as easily have not, though. So, I will be interested in hearing the "score" in his two runnings of the Battle of Severn at the convention.

    The rules we used -- quick and simple, as well as easy to teach to a convention crowd
After post-battle discussion, he decided to reduce the number of enclosed fields to four rather than six. Otherwise, I think he feels good to go for the convention. English Civil War is not an area of my interest. I will not be going out and purchasing figures for it, but it was fun game to play. Pikemen's Lament is quick, easy-to-learn, and provides a decisive encounter in 2-3 hours. I highly recommend the "Rampant" engine for beer and pretzels, big battles with multiple players on a side.

MINIATURES Acquired vs. Painted Tally for 2025

  • Miniatures acquired in 2025: 145
  • Miniatures painted in 2025: 107 

TERRAIN Acquired vs. Painted Tally for 2025

  • Terrain acquired in 2025: 21
  • Terrain painted in 2025: 39

SCATTER Acquired vs. Painted Tally for 2025

  • Scatter acquired in 2025: 93
  • Scatter painted in 2025: 72

Thursday, June 5, 2025

Various Ruined Buildings & Such Ready for the Flea Market

    Modern 'Stalingrad' ruins from 4 Ground -- first times I have built any of their MDF kits!
In keeping with my plan of steadily "thinning the herd," I've started painting things up specifically to sell in flea markets. Looking over my list of all my terrain and scatter, I realized that even if I did paint it all, I likely wouldn't have room for it! So, I've been going through the list and deciding what I can live without. The goal is to get it ready for the tabletop -- just someone else's table! Here is the first batch of various ruins -- buildings, walls, statues, etc.

    I thought these stairs would be a pain to put together, but the both kits went together easily
I bought two 4 Ground Stalingrad MDF ruined buildings from my friend Jeff Gatlin at the first Hold the Line convention. However, looking at all the modern ruins I have already painted and based up in game room closet, they are kind of superfluous. So, I put them together -- the first 4 Ground buildings I had assembled. They go together very nicely and are right up there with Sarissa Precision. Maybe even better with the extra little bits they give, like a strand of material to cut and use as exposed iron rebar. The thin cardboard building accents for the outer walls are nice, too.

    Base coating black and then doing two layers of gray dry brushing made these paint up quickly
I thought assembling the three stories of staircases would be a pain in the butt. It was not, though. The 4 Ground method made a lot of sense and was very easy to do. I used tacky glue to assemble all the pieces and was honestly shocked how little time they took me. One of the buildings comes in two pieces, and I used epoxy instead to join the halves together once each part was built. Once they were done, I spray painted them with Krylon Acrylic Fusion matte black. Once dry, I went over all the surfaces with a 50/50 mix of black paint and water to ensure everything seeped into all the blind spots and crevices. 

    I added a lot of rubble along the walls and in the corners of both buildings
Painting them was an easy dark gray dry brush, followed by a lighter gray highlight. For the wood, I painted them in dark brown, and followed up with a medium Camo Brown dry brush and a khaki highlight. I used a pale blue for the floors, hitting them with a white dry brush highlight. For the trim pieces, I used either pale blue or green for the trim pieces. For the rebar pieces, I used epoxy to stick them into their holes atop the ruins. I painted them Iron Wind Steel, then for the first time, tried a Rust effect solution from "Dirty Down" on them. I'm very happy with how it came out. I bought it from Discover Games at Buckeye Game Fest on a whim, and am glad I did. I can see myself using this in the future.

    I like the accents 4 Ground includes -- like the cardboard rectangles and pieces of 'rebar'
Both buildings are much cooler than their little black and white picture on the package showed. I admit, I am half tempted to keep them rather than sell them in the Historicon flea market. They are different enough from the ones I already have to provide variety, but still have the same ruined city or town look to them. Likely, I'll still sell them, though. I really did enjoy doing up my first 4 Ground buildings!

    These chimney ruins are 3-D printed and bought from Jarls Workshop a couple years ago
These three "chimney ruins" are 3-D printed from my friend Rusty at Jarls Workshop. I picked them up from him a couple years ago at Advance the Colors. I've painted 2-3 of them up already and figured that I really didn't need three more in my collection. So, they were on obvious trio to be culled from the herd. I prepared them the same way as the 4 Ground buildings. I painted the brick areas Iron Wind Red Brown first, then dry brushed them with Howard Hues Middle Eastern Flesh. 

    I put a lot of flocking and loose bricks to dress up the area inside the building foundations
All that is left of these ruins are the foundations and chimney, with the interior area meant to be overgrown vegetation. However, I decided to add some tumbled bricks to this area, though. I am running low on my little plaster bricks I bought at Dragons Guildhall so long ago. I need to find some more at Historicon or somewhere. And no, I won't count each brick as a piece of scatter on my Acquired vs. Painted totals. They're supplies, like paint...ha, ha! Once the glue was dry on the bricks, I painted the turf areas with my 50/50 mix of white glue and brown paint. I then sprinkled on fine brown ballast from Woodland Scenics, followed by Blended Earth flocking. 

    I think these chimney ruins turned out great for as little time they took to get ready for the tabletop
Similar to how I usually do my figure basing, I painted on white glue in irregular splotches and sprinkled it with Blended Grass from Woodland Scenics. Next, I added clump foliage and occasional tufts or flowers to make it look more interesting. I think they came out nicely. Not on the scale of the 4 Ground buildings, but still nice little pieces for someone's tabletop...I hope!

    I LOVE my Acheson terrain, but felt I could be parted with this cat statue on its ruined pediment
As much as I love my Acheson Creations terrain, I have to admit I am not sure why I bought this statue of a cat that looks like it is part of a ruined temple. My friends all know of my cat allergy (and avoidance of them). So, there would doubtless be some serious ribbing if I put a statue of a cat on my tabletop. Sorry, Fluffy, you're going to be culled, too! Like all Acheson terrain, this was incredibly easy to get ready for the tabletop. Preparation followed the same method as the other pieces. I used the same stone ruins recipe I use for my other stuff -- black base coat, dark gray dry brush followed by a lighter highlight. Like with the chimney ruins, I added a bunch of clump foliage to show it being overgrown. It turned out nicely, I think...for a cat! Ha, ha!!

    I think I did a nice job 'dressing up' this overgrown and ruined wall piece
The final piece is a section of ruined stone wall. It is from the Plastic Guys, a group of regional gamers from the Toledo area who used plastic and styrofoam to create simple terrain. I trimmed off the excess plastic and based it onto a piece of bass wood. I used a couple tiny model railroad trees to dress it up a bit, and added pieces of tumbled stone along both sides. I flocked it as I did with the chimney ruins, and added in lots of clump foliage to show it being overgrown, as well. For a piece of plastic terrain, it came out fairly well. Hopefully, someone at the flea market feels the same way and is willing to buy it!

So, there you have it -- my first batch of terrain built and painted with the express purpose of selling off. I typically double the price I paid for the item for my asking price, usually rounding it to a multiple of $5. My thoughts -- and feel free to tell me if you think they are too high or too low -- are $40 each for the 4 Ground buildings, $15 each for the Chimney Ruins, $10 each for the cat and the ruined wall. I'd be curious to hear your thoughts on those prices!

What else is on my painting desk? I am in the flocking stage of the next batch of 5 Viet Cong. I'll do photos of those five and the previous ones together as one post. I will also continue to work in some more terrain or scatter to sell, as well. I have two more to do of the Sci-Fi scatter that were in the pictures with the Alien Grays. I bought six of them and want to wait till I have all six to do a post about them. Stay tuned...more to come, as always! And I appreciate the comments, guys -- it makes my day to read them and know people are enjoying my ramblings!!

MINIATURES Acquired vs. Painted Tally for 2025

  • Miniatures acquired in 2025: 145
  • Miniatures painted in 2025: 107 

TERRAIN Acquired vs. Painted Tally for 2025

  • Terrain acquired in 2025: 21
  • Terrain painted in 2025: 39

SCATTER Acquired vs. Painted Tally for 2025

  • Scatter acquired in 2025: 93
  • Scatter painted in 2025: 72

Wednesday, June 4, 2025

Alien Grays for...well, the heck of it!

    3-D printed 'Alien Grays' I painted up kind of on a whim, but probably to sell off (poor blighters)
I bought these 3-D printed Alien Grays last year from JS Wargamer Printing. I didn't really have a need for them. They just looked cool. However, the more I have looked at my Sc-Fi collection, they really don't fit in. I wanted to paint them up, though, so decided to complete and sell them. Yep! I painted something up just to put in a flea market -- or perhaps the consignment store at Origins Game Fair. Of cousre, if I do decide to keep them, they would be excellent for Snarling Badgers game Majestic 13. Or, I could use them for a unit in Space Weirdos. Still, if you want to take the little blighters off my hands before then, let me know...

    'Take me to your Leader...' I really like how these guys (gals?) came out - especially their eyes!

Instead of spray painting them black, like I often do with 3-d printed minis, I went with the brush on White Gesso. I scoured photos on the internet for inspiration and decided to go with the classic gray, as in Alien Gray! I briefly considered a green as in Little Green Men, but so many more pictures on the internet are gray, I decided to keep it traditional. Well, as traditional as 3-D printed aliens can be...!

    A dozen of these came in a pack with a nice variety and only a handful of repeat poses
I used a medium gray as a base coat for their skin, and then a lighter gray dry brush. I was kind of baffled what to do for their space suits, though. There were few pictures on the internet that really gave me ideas, so in the end, I decided to use something that was shiny and colorful. The metallic Turbo Dork paint, Curacao Blue, looked great on the MDF Sci-Fi building I painted recently, so I went with that. I liked the way the shiny pale blue looks on the skinny little guys. It looks very retro, like the concept of Alien Grays itself!

    I used Turbo Dork's metallic Blue Curacao for their space shits, which I think are a nice retro look
For the trim and joints, I went with a dark, blue-green for contrast. I did a medium blue dry brush over those areas just for a little highlight. I also made the circular patch on the space suit the same dark blue-green. I thought about putting an alien looking rune on the patch, but it was so small that I felt the only thing I could handle would be tiny bluish-white dots.

    The 3 poses with the helmets on gave me the most pause as I went back and forth how to do them
To keep with the retro theme, I used a combination of copper metallic and Iron Winds Steel for their little rayguns. I gave the weapons a dark metallic red accent, too. Two of the figures weren't holding weapons at all, but instead were examining a human skull. The third was holding a very human looking adjustable wrench. I guess hand tools are universal when it comes to Science-Fiction!

    The poses holding the human skulls and poking at them with their finger seemed were fairly comical
Probably the part of the figures that gave me the most pause were the three that head their space suit helmets on over their heads. The face plate was rounded and designed smooth. How to do these? Should I try to paint them as clear with a blurry gray alien head inside? Honestly, I had zero ideas on how to do that. I decided to do them with a metallic reflective face plate. I did ever smaller layers of Iron Wind Steel, Gunmetal Gray, Pewter, and then Silver. The silver was intended to be the brightest part where the light would be reflecting off of it. It looked decent, I thought.

    I tried to go 'retro' with their weapons, using a metallic copper and red to fit the vibe
Then I decided to give one of the "Dragonfly Glaze" paints I had bought a try. Supposedly, it gives a "Full Spectrum" color shift over the surface it is painted. I wanted a YouTube video on how to use it, and followed its instructions. After one layer, I saw no speckles or sparkles -- nothing. After two layers, still no effect. I gave it a third layer and the only effect I saw was that it made it more glossy. No color shift. No glittery glaze. Nada. Anyone want a bottle of Folk Art "Full Spectrum" Dragonfly Glaze? I'm 0 for 2 with this paint!

    Here's the Alien Gray invasion all together again, posed with almost-completed Sci-Fi scatter
I decided to give them a rocky/gravel like flocking job. First, I glued on 3-4 pieces of black rubble that I bought from Discovery Games at Buckeye Game Fest awhile back. Then I added Woodland Scenics Fine Blended Gray Ballast. I did a black wash over the gray stones, dry brushed the pieces of rubble lighter grays, and added a tiny brownish tuft to each base. To seal the flocking in, I painted it with Liquitex Matte Varnish. Spray coating it was right out with the metallics. I didn't want them dulled down by a matte clear coat.

So, there they are! I am thinking of listing them for $65 (for the 12 figures) in the consignment store. If that sounds like a fair price to you and want them instead, contact me within the next 4 days or so. The deadline to register items for the store is coming soon. What else is on my paint desk? I do have another batch of Viet Cong finished, and another behind it more than halfway through. For the terrain that I plan to take and sell at the Historicon flea market, I have a nice variety. They're progressing well, too, so hopefully I will have pictures of them by the weekend.

MINIATURES Acquired vs. Painted Tally for 2025

  • Miniatures acquired in 2025: 145
  • Miniatures painted in 2025: 107 

TERRAIN Acquired vs. Painted Tally for 2025

  • Terrain acquired in 2025: 21
  • Terrain painted in 2025: 32

SCATTER Acquired vs. Painted Tally for 2025

  • Scatter acquired in 2025: 93
  • Scatter painted in 2025: 7