Gladiators - Trying Out 'Blood, Sweat, and Cheers'

Pick a gladiator and enter the arena! My stable of 28mm Gladiators

Keith wanted to try out Ganesha Games' "Blood, Sweat, and Cheers" gladiator game at our regular, Sunday evening gaming session. I was excited because it meant that my 28mm gladiators would finally be used in a game. Plus, I am looking for a system that I can use to teach to my 7th grade students when we learn about Ancient Rome and gladiators in class. It has to be easy to teach, and simple enough for the 12-13 year old kids to understand, of course!

My Murmillo, left, against Brian's Hoplomachus, right

Keith spent the weekend preparing, printing out decks and cards for gladiators, along with quick reference sheets. Since there were seven of us, he matched us up in three, one-on-one games. I like that each of the different fighting styles has a different card and stats. There are three basic stats -- Speed, Attack, and Defense, which range in values from 1 to 6. Typically, they seem to be 2 - 4. For example, my first gladiator was a Murmillo, a heavily-armed gladiator who had a Speed of 2, Attack of 3, and Defense of 4. I was matched up against Brian's Hoplomachus, another heavily-armed gladiator with a spear, but whose stats were all 3's.

Thanks to a timely Fortuna's Favorite card, Brian's gladiator goes down before my Murmillo

Speed is critically important, and this is how the game allows the very Roman method of matching heavier armed gladiators (like Brian and mine) against lighter armed ones, such as a Retiarius (trident and net guy). The slower gladiator plays his one or two card choices for his action before the faster one, who can then react and select which cards he wants to play. In the five matches I fought that evening, I was the faster one only once, and it WAS nice being able to react. It took us our first match and partway into the second to really get the system down in our heads. There were subtleties that we did not notice right away, including the fact that after each two-round turn you can discard any of the remaining cards in your hand before drawing up to your compliment of five, again.

Those about to die, salute you! From left, Brian, Keith, Joel, Mike S, Mike W, and Allen

Blood, Sweat, and Cheers is a card-driven game. Your hand of five cards can include any of the following, which is a typical deck in the game:

• 9 Step Cards
• 11 Strike Cards
• 9 Guard Cards
• 6 Glory Cards
• 3 Roar of the Crowd Cards
• 1 Fortuna's Favorite Card
• 1 Imperial Interest Card

Each of the cards allows your gladiator to, in order above, move, attack, defend, use their fighting style special abilities, take advantage of the crowd's favor, swap dice scores with your opponent, and...well, I never saw my Imperial Interest, but I heard it saves you from dying or something. Once we got it down, games went quickly. I learned that Fortuna's Favorite is a VERY powerful card - indeed, it was how I won my first match against Brian. We both attacked, and I rolled a 1 and he a 6. I swapped our dice, and the difference between our scores was 5 or more, so his gladiator was down and out of action. Boom! Just like that, it can end quickly. In fact, Allen and Mike W's first game ended on the second turn of fighting.

Our night's marathon match with Mike W and Allen well-matched

Most matches tended to last 10-20 minutes, though Allen and Mike's rematch went for a half hour or so. With an odd number for the evening, we swapped opponents, which meant we had some of us who played a lot of games and some who played fewer. Mike Stelzer's Thraex (Thracian) was the clear winner, going undefeated in four matches. There is even an mechanism for deciding whether your losing gladiator gets the thumbs up and lives, or whether his appeal for mercy is denied and he is dispatched at the end. Here was our final standings for the evening:

1. Mike S, 4-0
2. Mike W, 3-1
3. Mike D, 3-2
4. Brian, 2-2
5. Keith, 1-2
6. Joel 0-3
7. Allen 0-3

A funny thing happened in the arena tonight: Only Mikes could beat other Mikes (the three of us beat all non-Mikes)

How did I like it? Well, it IS quick, and possible to get many bouts in during an evening's play. The Glory cards do a great job of making each gladiator type different. There is almost no record keeping and you need only dice, a few counters, and cards. You will need action separate deck for each gladiator, which costs either money to purchase or print. Ideally, I would like rules for matches between multiple gladiators on a side. However, no one said they are uninterested in playing again, and most saw possibilities. Mike S loved it, of course - but that tends to happen when you win, right?

MDF Gas Station for my 28mm Urban Terrain

My 28mm MDF Sarissa Precision Gas Station being overtaken by one of my 28mm gangs

Although I think I may be at a stopping point on painting up gang members for my 28mm Urban Gang Warfare project, I have lots of buildings I can add to give them more "turf" to fight over. The latest is another Sarissa Precision building from their Retro Americana line, Gas Station - P002. I obtained it from one of those great guys you run into in this hobby, Terry Jones from Wargame Tools. Although he didn't have it in stock when I asked him about it, he picked it up for me on his next trip overseas and brought it back for me. From there, my friend Zeke grabbed it from him at Cold Wars (with my other purchases), and kindly brought it back to me.

I didn't use the Sarissa MDF pumps, instead painting up this resin one from Miniature Building Authority

As with most Sarissa Buildings, it went together VERY easily. I think that is the thing I like best about their products -- they are so simple to assemble. I did decide to NOT assemble their MDF gas pumps because I had previously purchased a resin gasoline pump island from Miniature Building Authority (another great group of guys!). Since my project is based in the 1980s or so, I wanted to make this gas station somewhat retro, like it is entitled. I also want it to be usable for more modern stuff, though, so I tried to think of what gas company hasn't changed its logo much over the decades. Shell came immediately to mind, so this would be a Shell station. I googled images of vintage shell stations to get the color scheme, and began painting.

The front interior section of the gas station - not the simple painting with details added by printed paper

I prepared the model as I usually do -- black prime with Krylon acrylic spray primer, followed up by a 50/50 mixture of black acrylic paint and water. Although this often makes the base colors on top of it need two coats, I like the effect and coverage that it gives. I painted the interior Ceramcoat Rain Gray first, then the outside Ceramcoat Ivory (a nice cream color) with Red trim. Honestly, painting this gas station has made me realize my physical painting skills are deteriorating. Look in the pictures and you will see the mess I made of straight lines on the red trim (the doors are the absolute worst), I am tempted, from this point on, to use even more printed paper on my models -- and as you can see, there is quite a bit on this one already!

Seamus, the leader of the Hilltop Highlanders, patiently waits his turn to use the facilities

I printed out the floors, interior doors, and posters on the walls to decorate this model. I really like the way they look -- far superior to what I could do freehand! I was wondering if a printed door would detract from the three dimensional aspect of the model, but I think it actually adds to it. Same with the signs and posters (and floors). They seem to give it depth. To get these, I simply do Google searches (except for the doors, which I downloaded from a free textures images website. I did have to add the Male/Female bathroom signs to them with Photoshop, which I use to resize the images to the correct size. The service bay was fun to decorate with pinup calendar girls...yes, I am stereotyping what mechanics would put on their walls! But I have been in enough service shops and seen enough scantily clad women in tool posters to base this at least partially on reality!

A couple gang members admire the artwork on the walls of the service bay while Seamus takes a pee

The Shell signs were taken from Google and resized, as well. I really like the side projecting signs. When I assembled the model, this had me scratching my head. I almost didn't put them on for fear of them catching on things and snapping off. It looks like they're secured fairly well from how the model is designed (going through two thicknesses of MDF), so I put them on. I think them painted red with the Shell logo looks great, though. I probably should have done more for the roof sign, utilizing the oval space more than the circular logo does. Oh well. Something to remember for future models.

A good look at the roof and the back of the building, as Seamus assembles the gang

The rooftop is one area of the model that I modified. Instead of simply using the MDF roof, I glued a sheet of textured plastic onto it. I used a brick-like pattern, and painted in deep red wetbrush, followed by a Howard Hues Middle Eastern Flesh dry brush. I think it gives it a much more three dimensional look than flat MDF. However, my plastic didn't attach so well to the MDF, and you can see where to bowed up a bit in places. I should have flattened it really well when affixing it under a stack of books, or something. Another thing to remember for future buildings!

All in all, I think the gas station is a nice addition to my 28mm urban terrain. In my game, I plan to give each player multiple missions for their gangs. The gas station will allow me add some cool stuff, like maybe stealing a car from the service bay! I have a lot of choices which building to do next as I bought a nice stack of them from Terry when I purchased this one. Stay tuned to see which one I build...

Two New Urban Gangs: Eastmoor Kings & the Hilltop Highlanders

Two leaders of the Eastmoor Kings, an African-American gang in my fictional world for 28mm Urban Gang warfare

With these last two gangs completed it means I have seven 28mm urban gangs completed. Since our normal attendance on a Sunday evening gaming is seven, I think I am at a stopping point in painting up figures for player factions. I may still want to paint up miscellaneous figs, like civilians, police, etc. And of course, I'll be working on terrain pretty much continuously for this project.

I decided to do this gang in matching shirts - black with a light green crown for Kings and "E" for Eastmoor

Appropriately enough, these are probably two of my favorite groups. I purchased figures from The Assault Group from their Ultra Modern line (their "rioters" packs) and they are perfect for this period. I tossed in a couple figures I had already to supplement what I purchased, but most of these figures are straight out of the pack, unmodified.

I was tempted to cut out the molotov cocktails from the hands of The Assault Group figures, but decided not to in the end

Let's start with the Eastmoor Kings. When I was going to high school in Columbus, Eastmoor was always a "scary" school. It was largely an African-American school (two-time Heisman trophy winner Archie Griffin went there!). So, it seemed a natural to name an African-American gang like the Kings after that school. Why the Kings? I did a Google search on gang logos and symbols, and The Kings kept coming up. It seemed like an appropriate gang name. Plus, I felt I could handle painting a crown with an "E" inside of it on their gang apparel.

As you can see, there is some repetition on the poses from The Assault Group, except for subtle difference like face scarfs

I gave most of the gang members jeans or gym shorts. I really like how the leader with the pistol came out, though, with the purple sweat pants. I am basing my games on the world of the Hollywood movie, The Warriors (except set in Columbus instead of New York City). Like in the movie, the gangs will prefer melee weapons rather than firearms. However, the figures was too good to not use, so he will make it onto the tabletop.

The Assault Group figures I used for this gang are probably some of my favorite ones I've painted for this project

The Hilltop is a neighborhood on the West side, so it was only natural that I locate one of my gangs there. Unlike Eastmoor, the Hilltop was mostly working class white when I was going to high school. I thought I would play off of the Hilltop name and call the gang the Hilltop Highlanders. For their gang apparel, I thought why not paint their pants as trews (or golf pants, if you prefer)?

Yes, that is my attempt at a Cincinnati Reds Johnny Bench jersey! Note the Hilltop Highlanders logo on the leather jacket

This was my last gang, and fun to paint. The Assault Group figures have a lot of character, and these probably have the most. I did not like how any of my other figures I own mixed with them, so this gang has only eight figures, fewer than the 10-12 of the others. For the trews, I decided to go a couple steps further than I have in the past for painting tartan patterns. I began with a deep red, drybrushed a brighter red. Next, I did a "window pane" of horizontal and vertical lines in dark brown. This is where I usually stop on tartan patterns, but I decided to add more. Next, came a thin, vertical yellow line in between the two brown ones. Finally, I added a dot of kelly green at the intersection of each vertical and horizontal brown line. I really like the effect it gave.

I like the sunglasses on the guy in the striped shirt, plus the variety of hair styles on these figures

Since the pants were the gang identifier, it allowed me to be a bit more creative and use more variety in their shirts or tops. As you saw above, I painted one as a Cincinnati Reds Johnny Bench jersey. Another had one of those blue down jackets that were so popular back when I was growing up. Others had leather jackets, and there was even one with a tie -- he must have a job that makes him dress up! The one with the scarf wrapped around his head gave me a pause. In this working class white gang, an Arab head scarf would hardly be welcome. So, I decided to give him a flag-looking one for a suitably patriotic look!

The gang member with the numchuks is a modified Foundry Ancient German, the rest are from The Assault Group

I guess now that I have the figures for this project mostly done, it is time to finish writing the rules! Weirdly, I woke up the other morning with ideas for a command and control system for a skirmish game running through my head. So, I may decide to go back and rewrite a portion of what I have done to include these (dream-inspired?) ideas. I also have another MDF building on my painting table, so things are finally moving again on this project!

Roman Civil War Intrudes on Gododdin

The men of Gododdin march to engage the two Roman invaders on the far corner of the board

Due to so much going on on our chosen weekend, we had only three players for our monthly Saga day at The Guard Tower East, today. The two mainstays of Saga in Columbus -- Andy Swingle and Steve Phallen, were both waiting when I arrived. We chatted for awhile, and then when no one else showed, decided to try a 3-way battle. Luckily, "Battle Royale" in the book of battles supplement has rules for three players, so we combined two 3'x4' mats into one 6'x4' one, and selected our armies.

Andy's Byzantine Roman army included a Legendary, heavily-armed cavalry unit (on hill)

I was playing the "Welsh" list, continuing the tale of Lord Gwendawg and his victorious (at least in the past) retainers. Andy chose the "Last Romans" list from the Age of Vikings book (representing the Byzantines), while Steve chose the Roman list from the Aetius & Arthur book. So, it was Romans vs. Romans vs. a list that used to be called Sub-Roman British in the old DBA days. The deployment sequence is clever, with a player choosing one of his units and placing them anywhere on the tabletop not within a Medium Move of an enemy unit. He then nominates one of his opponents to deploy a unit, who then does the same.

Andy and Steve's forces were deployed close to one another and were soon slaughtering each other

I deployed my units to essentially hide, out of sight. One of Steve's Roman units was a ballista, which is deadly against my large units. The effect is that my force was gathered in one corner of the board, while Andy and Steve were much more aggressive and intermixed their forces at short range, mostly in the opposite corner. I would have a long trek across the table to engage them, by which time the two would be savaging each other, suffering grievous losses. The movement system is equally clever, with each player having six markers (surrendering one after taking its turn and moving all of its forces). After finishing, the moving player nominates which of his opponents moves next (but it cannot be one with fewer movement markers left than the other).

Another look at the original deployment - the only enemy close were archers in the barn, top left, and woods, top right

Andy started off concentrating his forces better against Steve, though each kept one unit of archers to hold off the forces of Gododdin. It seemed he would make short work of Steve's troops, but Steve deftly turned the tables on him. Soon, it was Andy's forces who were dwindling. Meanwhile, we kept up a steady advance, bypassing the unit of Warrior Archers that Steve had left in the strongpoint of stone barn. Andy's Levy Archers were our first victim. After inflicting minimal casualties against them with our javelins, one of my 12-man warrior units charged in using the "Wild Charge" ability (which provides a bonus 6 attack dice). The men of Gododdin all but obliterated the archers, with one sole survivor fleeing deeper into the woods.

The tidal wave of brave men of Gododdin about to fall on the depleted Roman forces

Affronted, Andy's Warlord charged my own Levy javelinmen, who inflicted two fatigue on him before falling back. As he was in the middle of several of my units, it was obvious he would not survive his rashness. The Byzantine warlord went down under a hail of Gododdin javelins. Meanwhile, my mounted hearthguard (8 figures strong) and my own Warlord were hurrying to close with Steve's Romans before the game ended. Biding his time, Steve advanced his foot hearthguard unit towards my mounted ones, but had forgotten about the Welsh "Our Land" ability. This allows us to move or charge in reaction to an enemy move. The mounted heroes of Gododdin crashed into the elite foot legionaries. Bad dice kept the casualties equal, driving us off, but we followed up the next turn with another charge which eliminated the Romans.

To close at the battle, Lord Gwendawg charged the Roman Warlord and rode him down. Both enemy warlords had fallen to our javelins and swords. Most of my force was remaining, which also counts towards victory points (along with how many charges you launched), so Gododdin was declared the victor. I honestly think it was mostly due to the two of them wounding each other so savagely, allowing me to come in at full strength and finish them off. Granted, I felt I used my Welsh Battle Board well and augmented my superior numbers with key abilities. 

3-D Printed Billboards

My 3-D printed billboards loom atop an apartment building and also on the streets, where a rumble is taking place

I had been wanting to do billboards for my 20mm Modern Africa games for a long time. I had kicked around ideas on how to scratch-build them, but hadn't really settled on a method. Once I started up my 28mm Urban Gang warfare, I knew that billboards in my city would be great addition for them, as well. Since I was happy with the 3-D printed playground equipment, I asked my friend Joe Merz if Thingiverse had any billboards.

When free standing, the billboards are tall enough to loom over small buildings

He said they did, and forwarded the link with pictures. I decided to order four of them, for which he charged me $20. That was a good price -- not to mention the time I'd save on scratch-building them. When I picked them up, I noticed they came in two pieces -- the billboard part itself and the scaffolding (or whatever you want to call it) that holds it up. There was a place that you were obviously supposed to set the billboard, but I wasn't happy how short that would make the billboards. I decided to not use that spot and instead epoxy them further up along the back support. This made them look better free standing, I thought.

You can see the shelf where the billboard was designed to rest - I epoxied it higher up on the back support

I probably should have taken more care in my epoxying, as one or two of them are ever-so-slightly crooked. Not sure if anyone would notice, but I did. First, though, I had to clean the significant amount of flash between the supports. It actually looked like cobwebs, the plastic "flash" was so fine. I did my best to scrape out all of the tiny thin strands with an Xacto knife. After epoxying the billboards onto the supports, I spray-painted them flat black. Next, I brushed over them in a 50/50 mixture of black acrylic paint and water to ensure all the black got into the crevices and recesses.

The frame of each billboard was painted a faded color, then dry-brushed and washed to look well worn

The bottom and back supports were painted to be raw wood. I used my usual method -- Camo Brown dry-brushed over black, with a Colonial Khaki highlight. I painted the frame of each billboard a faded, sun-bleached color. I figured they would get lots of sunshine and probably any color would eventually be mostly washed out. Next, I dry-brushed the color to look even more faded. Finally, I gave the wood sections a black wash, to look worn and exposed to the elements. At the bottom of each billboard section there are four banks of lights, which I painted steel and silver to give the effect of glass light bulbs. I glued each billboard structure to a rectangular base, then flocked it with Woodland Scenics mixed, fine gray ballast. That is the same material I am using for the flocking of my Gang Wafare bases -- and the same material I use for the roofs of my modern buildings. This allows me to either have the billboards standing alone on the board or placed atop building roofs (as shown in the photos).

Some billboards were modern advertisements like these Coke and Miller Lite ones, others were more vintage

Early on, I had decided that I would epoxy metal bases onto the recessed face of each billboard. I would then create the actual billboards in Photoshop, and print them out on 8.5"x11" magnetic material you can buy at the office supply store (it is intended for you to print photos onto). That way, I can simply slap on which billboard I want to use for that particular game. It allows me to customize the billboard to the scenario, if I like.

20mm African Rebels gather underneath billboards extolling their fight

To create my billboards, I did Google Image searches to find classic billboards, such as Coke, 7up, Camaro, Marlboro, etc. I also decided to create some of my own for modern Africa games. I put slogans on them to recreate the feels of a dictator's propaganda. The intention is to be able to use these same billboards for a variety of periods -- modern day, late 20th century, and independence era Africa.

Metal bases were glued onto the area where the billboard sign would go, allowing me to slap on magnetic billboards

The billboard area was 2"x4.5", so I fit six billboards on each sheet of magnetic material. This meant I was spending about 60-cents per billboard piece, which I was fine with. I have two sheets of material left, so I will likely save that for another period that may crop up (post-Apocalyptic? Modern Middle East?). All in all, I was very happy with how these turned out.

I flocked the billboards to match the rooftops of my 28mm MDF city buildings so they could be used on roofs

Dark Ages archers

28mm Dark Ages archers for games of Saga or Tribal

Sometimes, a set of figures you begin painting seems to take forever to finish. This group of 13 Dark Ages archers was one of those. I began them months ago -- after I had played a game of Saga at Game Table Adventures. I realized to field more than one force, I would need to paint up more figures to use as Levy archers (which are in 12-man groups). So, I scoured through my unpainted lead and assembled this batch from various manufacturers and lines. Some are Viking, some are Pict, others Briton or who knows what!

I used muted and faded colors for these archers and really like how they turned out

After priming them, I quickly got their flesh done. Then they sat, and sat for quite some time. More than two months later, they are finally done. Other things jumped in line ahead of them, both miniatures from my Modern Street Gangs project, as well as terrain. I purposely set out to make them usable for a number of Dark Ages armies. So, no distinguishing Pictish checkered patterns, or other flourishes. Another thing that made this batch go very slow was it was much bigger than what I normally paint -- 13 28mm minis take awhile. Especially when you consider that virtually every color I applied also had dry brushing or other highlighting.

What's up next? Some more terrain, I think. But whatever it is, it probably won't be in a batch of 13!

Viking Column Fights Off Ambush

The Viking column marches across the table with the Picts moving in to attack at the top and Saxons at bottom

It was about time for another game of Tribal and our Dark Age skirmish continuing series of battles. I had created a scenario for a multiplayer game and sprang it on my players. The idea was that a column of Viking raiders were returning to their longships laden with loot and slaves. The countryside was roused, though, and their victims were on the warpath to ambush them and take back what was rightfully theirs. Our Viking players, Mike Wallace and Stelzer, were joined by our Norse-Irish run by Keith Finn. Gathering in the woods to attack them were the Picts (Allen), Saxons (me), and Joel's townsfolk.

The Picts emerge from the woods and move into position to attack, while some Vikings warriors rush to block them

I set up the battlefield with an open area bordered by woods running across the length of the table. The three Viking players set up one behind the other, each with a wagon loaded down with loot or a column of slaves. They were to center their forces on that. Meanwhile, the ambushers would set up behind the first line of trees (though I did not make that clear to the townsfolk player who set up in the corner wand was out of the battle in the early phases. The players were given 4-6 points to select their forces, with 0-4 points being spent on skills. The total used was subtracted from their Honor Pool of 15. Thus, a player who spends less on his force starts ahead in victory points. In addition, each wagon train or group of slaves was worth from 1-5 points for each under their control. The Saxons, Picts, and Townsfolk were attempting to steal these from the Vikings.

A Pictish hero faces down a unit of Viking warriors, while more Pict spearmen rush into position behind their leader

The Norse-Irish led the column, followed by Stelzer's Vikings and Wallace's bringing up the rear. Allen's Picts deployed to attack the middle and rear of the column, while my Saxons deployed to take on the middle and front. Joel's were mainly aligned against Keith in the front. I should have known luck was not going to continue for Steapa's Saxons, who were actually leading the campaign in Legend Points. In the first four turns, my four highest cards were flipped for Initiative, which most players consider an unfortunate waste of a card that could kill enemy. Pretty much all night my card drawing for combat proved fairly poor. I managed to squeak out a few wins in combats here and there, but my forces were being steadily whittled down.

Keith's Norse-Irish counter-attack strongly, driving a wedge and splitting my Saxon forces (seen sheltering in the woods)

Allen proved the most deadly of the attackers, inflicting serious losses on the Stelzer's middle Viking command. He was unable to keep up the momentum, though, against Wallace's rearguard command, which wore his forces down, steadily. My Saxons proved fairly impotent, destroying only one unit of Viking warriors. Despite having chosen the "Fearsome" skill -- which causes more losses among the enemy -- I seemed to be unable to cause many casualties to Keith's troops. On the other hand, my Saxons were being savaged by the Norse-Irish. Two units of warriors were whittled down to 1 figure each, and my toughest hero was slain in three card exchanges by a Viking hero. Even Steapa himself, was down to half his wounds remaining.

The Viking loot wagon rolls on as the Picts press home their attacks

The ambush proved to be a disaster for the attackers. The Picts were beaten back with terrible losses, ending the game with only three figures left on the table. My Saxon attack was quickly blunted, meaning I could do little to press home the attack or take pressure off my erstwhile allies. I escaped Only eight of my original 22 Saxons escaped alive. When the townsfolk eventually arrived on the field, they made a valiant attempt to pierce through the Viking van and free the slaves. The Abbot himself, swinging a massive flail wounded one Viking hero severely and pushed back the Norse-Irish chieftain. However, outnumbered, they eventually had to withdraw. The Vikings were left in possession of their ill-gotten gains, and the groans of the Britons continued under the Norsemen.

Meanwhile, the Townsfolk, at top, make a rush to free the lines of slaves, guarded by two heroes and one unit of warriors

In hindsight, I think I need to make a rule that the Viking players must keep at least one unit or leader in contact with the slaves or wagons for them to move. This would hamstring their counter-attacks more, and force them to defend their loot or slaves more closely. Perhaps I need to have the Vikings build their warbands with 3-5 points and the ambushers use 4-6, also. It might mean some attackers would actually get through the wagons or slaves. As it was, none of us got very close. I think our card draws were abysmal, for the most part. Luck certainly was on the Viking side in this game when it came to card play. Twice, units of archers drove off attacks of heroes or warriors in this game (both time it was Viking archers), which should have waded through them -- like the Vikings did when they contacted the Pictish archers.

A highlight of the battle -- the Townsfolk's leader, the abbot of the local monastery, drives back the Norse-Irish chieftain

The game was also intended to be a free-for-all, but none of the three players on either side back-stabbed their compatriots. Not that I thought they would. I figured it was be a one side vs. the other side type of game. With six separate initiatives, though, I think it probably moved a little slow. Maybe next time I will do a "side" initiative. When it is a side's turn to act, they each player on that side selects a unit or character to move. I certainly enjoyed the feel of Tribal with a clear scenario, too. Their seemed to be more tactical decision making in which units to move first, and which to hold off on.

The Townsfolk try to recover the monastery treasures and some livestock, but are driven back by a Viking hero

Here are the updated statistics after three games in our campaign:
LEGEND POINTS (cumulative Honor Points)

1. 40 Vikings of Jarl Mike W (Wallace, 3-0)
2. 34 Townsfolk of Camelon (Joel, 1-2)
3. 33 Steapa's Saxons (Mike D, 2-1)
4. 33 Vikings of Jarl Mike S (Stelzer, 1-2)
5. 30 Caithill's Norse Irish (Keith, 2-1)
6. 19 Picts (Allen, 0-3)

We finally used the Card Pool aspect of the Tribal rules, too. This certainly adds another level of tactical use of the cards. Players begin with a base one card in their pool, plus one for each victory. Here's the new card pool totals:
4 Cards: Vikings of Jarl Mike W
3 Cards: Steapa's Saxons, Caithill's Norse Irish
2 Cards: Townsfolks of Camelon, Vikings of Jarl Mike S,
1 Card: Picts

A look at the early stages of the battle - Viking column in center, Picts & Townsfolk in trees at top & Saxons at bottom

We haven't used the experience point idea that I had, yet. I decided to introduce one thing at a time. Perhaps for next session we will do that. So, at this point, experience points equals Legend Points. The thought is to allow players to purchase permanent skills that do not need to be re-bought every game with points from their Honor Pool.

Maybe I can design a true free-for-all scenario for the next game. Or perhaps we'll go back to the one-one-one matchups. I'll have to see what my players are interested in doing.

Finally! More attractive Wars of Insurgency order markers

The finished product -- order markers for two dozen squads done quickly, simply, and attractively for the tabletop!

I've been telling myself for months (years?) that I was going to get around to creating less obtrusive order markers for my modern infantry skirmish game, Wars of Insurgency. The colored poker chips I used are functional, but can be an eyesore for a perfectionist like myself when it comes to making your battlefield look great. My latest game, Bush War in Rhodesia, finally forced my hand.
In this game, there are six very large units of ZANLA insurgents. According to the special scenario rules, each time these units of 20 take a hit, they are marked with a "bombshell marker." Bombshell was the name the Rhodesians gave to the insurgent tactics when they came under attack by a Fire Force assault. Essentially, they splinter -- breaking up and running in different directions. In game terms, they split into two. A unit of 20 becomes two units of 10, a unit of 10 splits into two of five, a unit of five actually begins suffering morale effects.

Wooden discs readily available at craft stores make great, inexpensive order markers

What this has to do with markers is it means I need a LOT more order markers for the ZANLA side than I have in my previous games. So, I decided to make some up in a quick and simple fashion, but hopefully so they don't detract from the look of the battlefield. I used 1.5" diameter wooden discs available at craft stores like Hobby Lobby and Michaels.

Each round wooden disc is attached to a bamboo skewer with blue tack then set upright in foam

I would do the next batch differently than I did these, though. The first step is to attach each disc to a bamboo skewer with blue tack, and then use some foam to create a holder for the skewers. Next, glue down the JTT Detachable Grass Bushes first to the center of the disc. I made a mistake and did Step #3 before this step #2. The next step is to paint the disc with a 50/50 mix of brown paint and white glue. The wet disc is sprinkled with Woodland Scenics fine brown ballast to give it a solid, thick flocked earth base.

Sigh, mistake! I foolishly flocked the disc with ballast BEFORE attaching the bush causing problems for me later

After it dries, the next step is to paint the ballast with a 50/50 mix of white glue and water. While it is wet, sprinkle it thickly with Woodland Scenics Blended Turf Earth. After it dries, do this again with Blended Grass. Next, spray it the markers with clearcoat. When dry, a final 50/50 mixture of glue and water should give it a thick durable coating.

A view of the poker chips I used before on a battlefield

You can apply 1" round adhesive stickers to the wood underside to denote your squads that move first, second, etc. The markers are anonymous enough that opponents can't look at them and know which unit you've marked to go first, but scenic enough that they actually add to the look of the tabletop rather than detract from it like...ahem, colored poker chips!

Acheson Creations resin bases which will form my next batch of order markers

I am also working on another batch of markers, this time using Acheson Creations round bases (I believe what they are meant to be). I've washed them to remove the mould release agent off of them, and spray primed them black. The challenge will be to flock and paint them as identically as I did with the wood discs!