Trailer Park Grows: Two More 3-D Prints from Bad Goblin Games

    Bad Goblin Games' 'Fortified Trailer #2' - 3-D printed building with lots of character & details

I picked up two more 3-D printed trailers from Bad Goblin Games at Siege of Augusta awhile back. One is their Fortified Trailer #2 and the other is Ruined Trailer #2. The really cool thing was that Brian and Liz Peak will both be attending Cincycon this weekend. They wanted to run a game of their Trailer Park Warlords of the Apocalypse. I offered to bring down a game mat and terrain for them, if they wanted to do it. They agreed, so if you go to Cincycon, you'll have a chance of playing a game with these newly-finished trailers!

  Heavily damaged front of 'Ruined Trailer #2' with some of my post-apocalyptic survivors

I decided to do both of them simultaneously, because I had slight deadline pressure. Plus, having already finished two of them that I bought at Historicon 2024, I knew how quickly they painted up. There is no construction to do on these -- just prime and paint. That is, unless you count epoxying the upper half of the trailer to the lower base...! First, though, I based both on MDF. For the ruined trailer, I glued the roof on, too,  because it is 2/3's destroyed/missing. The roof wouldn't get in the way of moving figures around inside of it. For the fortified one, I kept the roof removable -- it has nice tabs that keep it in place during games. 

    Other side of the fortified trailer with my add-ons (yard flamingo & bird bath) and some 28mm figs

I did my usual Krylon Fusion Acrylic Black Matte spray coat first, followed by brush-on mix of 50/50 water and acrylic black paint. The black base does mean you have to do two coats of lighter shades (like I was going to do), but it is no real problem. I chose a pale gray-green for the ruined trailer and a salmon pink for the fortified one. Each got a base coat then a dry brush of a lighter shade (very light gray for the green, pink for the salmon). The bottom half of the ruined trailer I did in a medium gray, figuring a two-tone look might be nice.

    Detachable roof on the fortified trailer -- the tires, cinder blocks & everything come already affixed

Next, I painted the various fortifications and damage on both trailers. The tires, wooden door, stop signs -- all of it -- is straight out-of-the-package. The only modifications I did to either was to the interiors with posters and flooring. I did the windows and doors in a contrasting trim color, dry-brushed in a lighter shade. For the damaged sections, I painted them dark gray with a medium gray dry brush. The tires were also done in charcoal gray, with medium gray drybrush. I had to pull out one of my finer tip brushes for my attempts at lettering the "STOP" on the hexagonal signs. Bad Goblin trailers typically come with two stairs leading up to the doors. One is made of cinder blocks and the other is wooden stairs. If you are using the wooden ones, I suggest gluing them to the base AFTER the outside of the trailer is done. That way, you don't have to poke your brush through the slats to paint the trailer's surface. 

    A look at some of the 'trailer park kitsch' posters I printed out and glued to the walls

For the doors, I decided to leave them open on two trailers. They are modeled to be able to swing open and close, but I find that once you've painted both the doors and the frame, the layers build up kind of freezing them in place. If you want yours to open and close, I suggest you shave off some material from the door or frame before priming. For the interiors, I chose pale colorw for the walls (yellow for the ruined one and sky blue for the fortified trailer). This time, I used a wide, flat brush rather than my usual rounded brush. It worked a lot better, and there was fewer splash over spots on the window or door frames. Two coats was enough to cover over the black primer, even with the lighter colors I used.

    Other wall's posters -- Jenny suggested the "Velvet Elvis" poster, and a look at the smoke damage

Next, I did a black vehicle wash over the exterior and then interior. I stupidly went back to my rounded brush for the interior of the ruined trailer and it came out very streaky. For the sky blue interior, I used the wide, flat brush and I was much happier with the look. The flooring is scrap booking paper sold at the local craft store trimmed and glued into place. I also dry brushed smoke stains around the damaged sections on both the interior and exterior. I was very happy with how this turned out, adding a touch of realism, I feel. 

    A little bit of whimsy with the flamingo and a scratch made water fountain with water & leaves in it

The next step was to glue my trademark posters on the inside walls (and a few choice places on the exterior). I found images I thought were appropriate with Google searches. I tried to go with what might be a stereotypical decoration in a low-income or working class trailer park. Jenny suggested the Velvet Elvis painting, and the NASCAR poster (sorry, Jason -- don't tell Lily!). I thought the Springsteen "Born in the U.S.A." and the Lynard Skynard...wait, "Skyyyyynard!" were nice touches. Hopefully, no one is offended by my playful lampooning of trailer park chic! I resized the images and printed them off at the local office supply store on their color laser printer. After cutting them out, I paint the back with white glue and stick them to the walls. They are easy to do and work perfect!

    The mostly blow away back of Ruined Trailer #2 - I'm happy with how the smoke damage came out

The final step was to decorate (or trash up?) the yards a bit. For the pink one, I built a bird bath with round miniature bases and a tiny plastic bowl. I cut a circle of blister pack plastic for the water surface and glued a couple leaves to it. I added in tiny sky blue ripples of a reflected sky and then finished it off with a clear gloss. I then did the Homer Simpson, "D'oh!", because I would need to carefully cover it up with masking tape when I clear coated the model to prevent it from "frosting." Other things I added to the yards for atmosphere were a toilet, kitchen sink, and curved pipes. For the pink one, I really, really wanted to put flamingos in the yard. I couldn't find any tiny plastic ones at the local train store or craft stores. So, I resorted to buying a pack off Amazon. To save our brick and mortar stores, I try to buy as little as possible off Amazon. The flamingos are probably too big, but I used them anyway. I drilled out the underneath and added wire legs with a paper clip. I also drilled holes for the legs in the MDF for stability. If you think they look too goofy, let me know. I can always remove the flamingo later if I decide the out-of-scale size bothers me too much!

    Close up of the posters in the ruined trailer -- a rocker & NASCAR fan lived here (or still does?)

The last step was flocking, clear coating, and then the two trailers were done! They went quickly (soooo much faster than building and modifying an MDF one). If you're interested in creating a 28mm trailer park or adding one to your skirmish games, I highly recommend Bad Goblin Games and their selection. Thankfully, Liz and Brian are NOT bringing their store with them to Cincycon (they're in town for work), so I am saved at least till Historicon 2025 from the temptation of buying more trailers!

    Side of trailer with my scratch made debris and plumbing pipe from Miniature Building Authority

What else am I working on? I have a batch of eight Dark Age mounted troops begun on my painting desk right now. The plan for the next terrain that I will paint is to convert my two Reaper shipping containers into buildings, much like the Miniature Building Authority one I painted recently. And of course, I'm headed to Cincycon this weekend. Hope to see you there!

    Close look at the included cinder block stairs & more debris flocking I made & an MBA kitchen sink

MINIATURES Acquired vs. Painted Tally for 2025

• Miniatures acquired in 2025: 95
  
• Miniatures painted in 2025: 15 

TERRAIN Acquired vs. Painted Tally for 2025

• Terrain acquired in 2025: 5
  
• Terrain painted in 2025: 9

SCATTER Acquired vs. Painted Tally for 2025

• Scatter acquired in 2025: 9
  
• Scatter painted in 2025: 5

 

    Another look at the front of the ruined trailer with some of my survivors scoping out the territory

    Side view of the fortified trailer, plus a discarded toilet sitting in the yard to 'trash it up'

Two Miniature Building Authority 'Shanty Town' Buildings

    Two Miniature Building Authority structures I bought at Siege of Augusta painted up & ready!

Two of my purchases from Siege of Augusta a couple weeks ago are ready for the tabletop! I decided to jump the two Miniature Building Authority structures I picked up from their "Shanty Town" range to the front of the line. They both looked like they'd paint up easily, as well as be usable for a number of differnt periods, including modern, post-apocalyptic and even Sci-Fi. The larger building is the "Souq," a mud brick building with three small rectangular store fronts beneath a corrugated steel awning. The other is a building made out of a shipping container.

    I like how MBA's 'Souq Minimall' painted up -- the garage doors here pop in or out as you wish

The Souq M.E. Minimall is a hefty, resin piece. I decided to mount it on MDF board rather than the usual styrene plastic. I recently got a long sheet of MDF that came as packing from a purchase. I saved it, knowing it would be useful as basing material (and it was free!). I spray painted the building black and then brushed on a 50/50 coating of water and acrylic black paint to make sure paint got into all the nooks and crannies. As a first coat, I slathered on a wet brush of dark leather color. Next, I dry brushed a Khaki highlight. Finally, I did a very light tan on just the sections that looked like they were stucco. The exposed mud brick I left alone. 

    Back of the MBA Souq guarded by some of my 28mm Foundry figs from their 'Street Violence' line

Once that was done, I turned my attention to the corrugated steel awning. I decided to do a patchwork of colors to represent the material for the awning was scavenged from various sources. It is a "Shanty Town," building, after all...! I used pale greens, blues, yellows, pinks, and mixed in light gray, too. All the colors got the same white dry brush highlight. I mirrored the colors on the underside of the awning, though I doubt anyone will ever see it. Finally, I added rust effects to the corrugated steel. I painted streaks of Autumn Brown first, then added splotches of fluorescent orange to the center of the streaks. I was happy with how the rust turned out, which is not always the case!

    The roof is simply a piece of MDF that I textured with sand - here it is removed

The detail on the back side of this MBA building is really nice, too. I picked out the wires in a dark gray with light gray highlight. The electrical boxes were Steel and Pewter. The doors were either wood or painted steel (dirty pink and light blue). The trash heap was kind of a pain to paint. I did a dark gray across the entire heap, then went back and picked out various tin cans, bottles, and scraps of cloth. Finally, a light gray dry brush over the areas that remained gray completed the trash heap. The included roof is simply a rectangular piece of MDF. I painted it to match the wet brush leather color. Once dry, I painted the top surface with white glue and pour sand over it. This gave it a nice texture, which was made even better by the application of the black wash, below.

    A look inside each of the mud brick souq's 3 store fonts with the printed paper 'tile' floors

The next to last step was to apply my black vehicle wash to the entire structure, roof included. It ended up making it much darker than I anticipated. I should probably have watered the black wash down further (I am pretty sure it is already half strength inside my pre-mixed bottle). Oh well. It just looks dirtier, right, and shantier? I am not unhappy with how dark it is. It just doesn't match the other two MBA mud brick buildings that I have painted up previously.

    This MBA resin building can be used for modern, post-apocalyptic and honestly even Sci-Fi games

Finally, I went online and looked up "Middle Eastern floor tile" results on a Google Image search. Scrolling through pages of results, I finally found one with a brown tone that I liked and thought would match the overall color of the Souq. I used the Screenshot feature and my Affinity Photo program on my laptop to make a full floor pattern of it. I resized it into three different sizes, then printed it out at the local office supply store on their color laser printer. I picked the smallest tile size of the three and trimmed it to fit the shop floors. Voila -- floor tiles!

    Great idea for a shanty town -- a building made out of a converted shipping container!

I was in for quite the surprise when I opened up the Container House: Contractor Office. The shipping container was plastic and looked familiar. Hey! It was a Reaper shipping container -- the same as the one I have sitting unpainted in my closet...ha, ha! It also included two pieces of resin. The first is the resin front of the office, including a corrugated steel door and awning. It also has the outlines of a window molded into it. The second piece mystified me. It looked like a wooden door, but had no door handle. Later, looking at the photo on the box which I'd saved (duh!), I realized it was meant to be a wooden porch. I had already based it up, though, and didn't have room for it anymore. No biggie -- I decided to save it to use as a door for another project, someday. The building would work fine without a porch. 

    I am really happy with both the rust effects and the 'No Trespassing' signs on this building

I glued the office front piece in the center of the shipping container's long sides, then the building and the roof received the same preparation as the Souq: spray paint and 50/50 black mix. Shipping containers come in so many different colors, so I went back and forth on how to paint it. I decided a pale green, so gave it a medium green base coat and light, green-gray dry brush. I painted the iron latches steel and then went to work on the front of the office. I painted the corrugated steel office front pale blue, the door a dark red, and the window black with steel and pewter bars.

    The kit comes with 2 resin parts -- the 1-piece office front here and a porch that I didn't use

I liked how the rust effect had turned out on the Souq, so I duplicated it here on this building, as well. Once I had sufficiently rusted up the steel, I turned my attention towards the interior. Rather than paint it by hand, I decided to glue in patterned scrapbooking paper for the walls and floor. I measured the sizes, checked and trimmed each piece, and then covered the area it would be attached with a thin coating of white glue. This does a good job keeping it secure in place, as I have used this technique for multiple buildings. I decided to decorate up the interior like I did with my Bad Goblin Games trailers, too. I went with the same "hillbilly patriot" types of images to decorate the walls. I also built a little door frame out of cardboard, craft wood sticks, and corrugated styrene. I placed it inside lined up as best I could with where it was on the outside of the structure. To recreate the window, I used plastic grid netting ("granny grate," it is sometimes called) and trimmed away portions of it so that it looked vaguely like the window on the office front.

    The shipping container itself is plastic with separate roof and is from Reaper Miniatures

The contractor office came out well, and would not look out of place in my trailer park. In fact, I plan to convert my two unpainted Reaper shipping containers into another similar house. With the two new trailers I bought at Bad Goblin Games, I am getting close to being able to have a tabletop that is one big trailer park! That should be fun!! I'm happy with how both of these turned out and am glad I picked them up at the convention. Kirk at MBA is a great guy, and I always try to support him when I see his booth at shows.

    I used scrapbooking paper for the walls and floor and scratch-built a door and window to glue inside

What's up next? I am assuming I will eventually get around to doing the furled sail of the Viking longship one of these days before I leave of on vacation! The ship itself was actually finished before these two buildings. I've just been delaying doing the mast because I am afraid I will make a mess of the furled sail...ha, ha! I need to take the plunge and do it. I've said "I'll do it tomorrow" the last three days! Hopefully, that means I'll do it tomorrow...

    Of course, I decorated up the interior with what I thought were suitable 'Hillbilly Patriot' pictures

MINIATURES Acquired vs. Painted Tally for 2025

• Miniatures acquired in 2025: 7
  
• Miniatures painted in 2025: 10 

TERRAIN Acquired vs. Painted Tally for 2025

• Terrain acquired in 2025: 5
  
• Terrain painted in 2025: 6

SCATTER Acquired vs. Painted Tally for 2025

• Scatter acquired in 2025: 9
  
• Scatter painted in 2025: 5

Tofu Bar from Miniature Building Authority

    One of Miniature Building Authority's unique terrain pieces -- a 28mm tofu bar!

I admit that a 28mm Tofu Bar is probably one of my stranger purchases for my modern (or post-apocalyptic) games. I picked it up a year or two ago at Advance the Colors when Miniature Building Authority was there as a vendor. I always like to buy terrain off Kirk -- his products are superb and look great on the tabletop. But a Tofu Bar...?

    A look from behind the counter of the MBA tofu bar

Maybe it will seem less strange if you think of it as a street vendor or market stall. I already have a half dozen market stalls that I regularly put on my tabletops. This simply gives it more variety. I'm sure it will look good mixed in with the vendors selling fish, fruit, meat, and vegetables. Personally, I don't eat tofu...ha, ha! However, it is certainly a unique item. I bought it think it could be a little street bar, but the chopsticks and plates of tofu and rise are cast onto the counter, so tofu bar it is!

    My original thought was to make it a generic street side bar, but you can see chopsticks & rice bowls

If I were to go back and redo this piece, I would NOT black prime it. I would have primed it in white so that I wouldn't have to put in two or more layers to fully cover the counter tops, plates, etc. I decided to go with a pale blue and very light gray booth and countertop. Behind the counter, I made the preparation counter an yellowish ivory. The bowls, plates, condiments, and such I painted in brighter colors. Make no mistake about it -- even though this is a small piece of terrain, it took a LOT of time to complete. With the base that I cut and glued the bar and four stools onto it is about 3" square, to give you an idea of its size.

    View from above shows the scrap booking paper I put behind the counter and my paving stone base

There were some small amounts of flash to trim off with an X-acto knife here and there on the piece. The legs of the stools come solid, so I had to paint the "empty space" black and the legs themselves Pewter metallic. I don't think it is too distracting, so am okay with it. For the floor behind the counter, I added a piece of color printed scrap booking paper. I think it really adds a lot to the overall look. For the base itself, I decided to go with a stone or tile pattern. I painted the base light gray and then added a diamond and square paving stone pattern with a micron pen. I know it is kind of shaky in parts. Once again, if I had to redo it, I might put the paving stone pattern on BEFORE I glued down the bar, or at least the stools. Oh well -- live and learn!

    A good look from behind shows all the details this model includes -- even cabinets and cutlery!

I like how the tofu bar looks, but like I mentioned earlier, it took quite a few painting sessions to complete. Counting it all up, there are more than two dozen individual details, from plates to cups to cabinets behind the bar. For each of those, I did a base color and dry brush or highlight. I think all of the colors and highlighting makes the tofu bar look more realistic, though. In the end, it was certainly worth the effort. Look for it to appear in another one of my post-apocalyptic or modern games soon!

What's up next? I have begun working on a 28mm resin Viking longship that has sat in my closet for literally decades. I won it at a DBA Tournament years ago in Pittsburgh -- so that may give some of my friends an idea how long ago I acquired it. I will use it as eye candy on the tabletop for my Viking Raid game I am running at Cincycon, DayCon, Drums at the Rapids, and Origins 2025. Otherwise, I have six 28mm Dark Age warriors nearing completion on my painting desk, as well. So, stay tuned for more updates! Plus, this weekend I am heading south to visit my friend Jason in South Carolina and attend Siege of Augusta wargaming convention with him. I'm sure I will have updates from there, too...!

MINIATURES Acquired vs. Painted Tally for 2025

• Miniatures acquired in 2025: 0
  
• Miniatures painted in 2025: 4 

TERRAIN Acquired vs. Painted Tally for 2025

• Terain acquired in 2025: 0
  
• Terrain painted in 2025: 4

SCATTER Acquired vs. Painted Tally for 2025

• Scatter acquired in 2025: 0
  
• Scatter painted in 2025: 1

Refugee Car & 4 New Survivors

    Four more survivors protecting their belongings piled upon a MBA 'Refugee Car'

Happy New Year! I hope you had a good set of holidays. Mine were fairly relaxing, which is nice, and also helped with my productivity! I'd begun both of these projects well before the New Year, but they were slow going -- especially the refugee car. The resin car is from Miniature Building Authority and is an awesome piece of eye candy for the tabletop. I picked it up at Historicon 2024 this past July, among other things I purchased from Kirk. Three different manufacturers are responsible for these four survivors: Foundry's Street Violence range (Crisanto), Copplestone Castings' Future Wars (Martina & Reef), and  Battle Valor Games. Thanks to my friend Jason for correcting me on Martina and Reef's manufacturer!

    This resin car from Miniature Building Authority has a LOT of detail that took serious time to paint!

Starting with the refugee car, as you can tell by looking at it, there was a LOT of detail. Now, I could have taken a short cut and made all the bags tan, etc. However, I didn't think it would look as nice. So, I was determined to look at each item affixed to the car and decide what color to paint it. I was hoping the riot of different colors would really make the model stand out. I tried to go with a more dull slate of colors, except for maybe the bright blue couch! I figured the less bright colors, the dry brushing, and the overall black wash, would unify the look enough once I was done.

    You gotta love the couch heaped up on the car - I mean, wherever we're going, we need comfort!

It took more than a week, picking out maybe a half dozen items to paint each session, then dry brushing them the next day. I would then pick out a new group of things to paint, dry brushing them the next day. I actually started with the body of the car and tires first. After priming everything black, I painted the body a Pewter metallic color. Why that color? Mainly because there are a lot of silver sedans driving through our neighborhood with what appears to be a recent arrival to the U.S. being taught how to drive! So, the color choice was an inside joke for myself -- plus, when rusted and dirtied up, I thought silver would look good.

    I was pretty happy with the rust effects that I added -- it looks like a beat up car barely on the road

Speaking of the rust, I used Autumn Brown first for the areas of rust, then filled it in with fluorescent orange. Once the entire thing was done, I gave it a black vehicle wash. The windows, which had previously been painted solid flat black, were painted a bluish glaze at the top to give the effect of reflected sky. I have done this on other cars, and it tends to look good and work about half the time. You be the judge whether it worked this time...! All in all, I'm very happy with the car, and it will likely appear on the tabletop in my next post-apocalyptic or zombie game. Pick one up from Kirk next time you see Miniature Building Authority at a show!

    My favorite of this batch of survivors, a tough-looking ex-marine with braided hair - Martina

The four survivors are the heavier armed ones from the batch of eight I'd picked out from my unpainted lead a few weeks ago. Three are armed with assault rifles and one with a shotgun. I really like how all of them look except maybe the cop in riot gear. I think I simply made his color scheme too black and gray and he looks like a dark blob unless you pick up the miniature and examine it closely. My favorite of the four is Martina. She is from Copplestone Castings' Citizen Militia pack. I love the long, braided hair going down her back. I decided to give her woodland camouflage pants and a tan colored shirt. I gave her a darker skin tone, too, using a leather color with a lighter tan dry brush. I also gave her some tattoos because she looked like a tough lady. I'm not sure if you can read the "USMC" on her right forearm. I was tempted to call her Vasquez from Aliens ("Hey Vasquez! Have you ever been mistaken for a guy?" "No...have you?"). However, I figured that one day I make actually pick up the Vasquez figure from the Another Glorious Day in the Corps board game, and that would make things awkward between the two...ha, ha!

    Surfer dude Reef is an interesting figure with sweat pants and 'slides', or sandals in old people speak

My next favorite is Reef, who I thought looked like a surfer dude armed with an AK-47. He appeared to have sweat pants and "slides" (we call them sandals, but kids today call them slides). So, I gave him blond hair, purple sweat pants, and a bright green shirt. His slides are white with purple trim, and in true surfer fashion, his mirrored sunglasses having matching purple lenses. The green of his shirt was considerably darkened down by the black wash that I did, so it looks less like beach wear than I was hoping. I also gave him some tattoos. I was tempted to give the shirt a Ron Jon surf wear logo, but once I pulled up an image of the company's symbol, I didn't think I could execute it with my micron pens! He is also from the same pack as Martina.

    I like how Crisanto's urban-style camo pants turned out - he is a 28mm Foundry 'Street Violence' fig

Next in line of my favorites of this group is Crisanto. He is from the "SWAT team Alpha" pack in the Street Violence range. I used my Asian flesh that I'd mixed up to paint my Saga Mongol army. Once I painted his black hair and mustache, I thought he looked more Filipino than anything. He wears body armor and elbow and knee pads, which was going to be a challenge to make gray yet still give some color to the figure. So, I decided to give him urban camouflage patterned pants and a dark bluish-green shirt. That proved to be enough lighter colors to avoid the "dark blob" look that his buddy Hondo suffered! I lined the dark gray pads with a lighter gray rather than dry brushing them. I wanted to make sure they stood out more distinctly, so chose that method. The only part I don't like about the miniature is the assault rifle slung over his shoulder. The strap was messing with my mind, trying to figure out where it started, ended, and connected to the gun. Otherwise, I really like how he turned out.

    Did I do a good enough job making the detail visible? Or is Hondo a 'dark blob'?

The final figure, Hondo, is a Battle Valor Games policeman in riot gear. Like with Crisanto above, I tried to make color choices that would keep it from looking like a dark blob, but I honestly think I failed here. I should have rethought how I painted his riot gear rather than going with standard black or dark gray. I have more than one of these left from my pack of police in riot gear, so if I paint more, I will get more creative. Perhaps doing Google Image searches will reveal somewhere in the world that has more brightly colored riot police. Anyway, four more survivors are done, which is just in time. I will likely be running a game of Zombie RV for my Sunday night gaming group soon.

What's next? Terrain-wise, I will be painting up three Acheson Creations Dark Ages thatch roof huts. They are spray primed and have also had their 50/50 mix of black paint and water brushed on. As for miniatures, I debating between a couple choices. Stay tuned to see which ones I decide upon!

MINIATURES Acquired vs. Painted Tally for 2025

• Miniatures acquired in 2025: 0
  
• Miniatures painted in 2025: 4 

TERRAIN Acquired vs. Painted Tally for 2025

• Terrain acquired in 2025: 0
  
• Terrain painted in 2025: 0

SCATTER Acquired vs. Painted Tally for 2025

• Scatter acquired in 2025: 0
  
• Scatter painted in 2025: 1

Giant 28mm Water Tower from Bad Goblin Games

    28mm water tower, 3-D printed from Bad Goblin Games -- a bargain at only $20!

Some of my favorite purchases this past summer at Historicon 2024 were from the Bad Goblin Games booth. This water tower was one of them. It has been looming over my painting desk since I brought it home in July, impatiently waiting for me to get it painted and ready for the tabletop. It'll be perfect for modern and post-apocalyptic games, and a nice piece of eye candy on the tabletop. Probably the most amazing thing about it to me was that it cost only $20! They also make a ruined one, by the way...

    Big Bass or my survivor group the Bass Reeves checks out the view from halfway up the tower

It is 3-D printed, so I gave it my usual treatment that I do for terrain. I spray painted it black first with Krylon acrylic paint and then went over it with a 50/50 mix of water and acrylic black paint when dry. I went back and forth about what color to paint it. My current water tower, a 15mm MDF one bought years ago from Impudent Mortals, is painted in a steel color. I like how it looks and have used it numerous times in my 28mm games, too. I mean, how tall is a water tower supposed to be to be "in scale?" So, I decided to copy that minus the rust effects I gave the MDF one. I struggled over the "to rust or not to rust" decision for awhile, too, but in the end thought it might look best with no rust on it.

My base coat was one of my favorite metallic craft paints, a Folk Art bottle called "Gunmetal Gray." I left the grooves between the square steel plating black, but painted the rest of it entirely in that color. Next, I used another Folk Art craft metallic called Pewter and did highlights were I thought the sun would be shining off of the tower. Parts that were underneath or would likely be in shadow I left that base coat. Finally, inside the irregularly shaped patches of Pewter, I added a splash of Bright Silver.

    I went back and forth how to paint the water tower but ended up going with boring steel...ha, ha!

This is typically the recipe I use for large, steel-colored metallic areas on miniatures or terrain. I really like how it looks once I put a black wash over it. The effect is to soften the lines between the different colors and blend it all together. Except this time it didn't. To me, the Pewter and Silver patches stand out too brightly still. At first I thought maybe I was being too critical of my work. Once it is all flocked and on the tabletop, it will look great, I told myself. Except I am still unhappy with it. No, I'm not going to repaint it or sell it or throw it away, or anything like that. It's just that normally I am fairly excited about how my terrain looks. The water tower is an exception.

    Out of breath from the climb, Big Bass admires the view from high above the tabletop

I would love to hear from readers of the blog what they think. Am I being too critical of myself? Who knows? Maybe next convention I see Bad Goblin Games at I will buy another one (it's only $20!) and try again next year...ha, ha! The flocking was done similar to how I do my standard bases with an irregular dirt and grass look. After finishing it, I also debated whether to "junk it up" with trash, discarded machinery bits, or whatever. In the end, I decided not to do that. Still, there certainly was a lot of indecision and self-doubt going on with this terrain piece!

Either way, though, the water tower itself is an amazing piece of 3-D printed terrain. The only modification I did to mine was to cut a hole in the upper platform so that the ladder comes up from the basket and through the hole. I had to cut to size the two 3-D printed ladders that came with the model. I took the trimmed off pieces and placed them along the railing inside the metal cage halfway up. I actually snipped a piece awhile back to use for my "Zombie RV" that I converted from a die cast pizza truck. Next time I am going to see them, I may ask them if I can buy more of those ladders. They could be useful for a number of things. Sure, I can scratch build them, too, but these are certainly more convenient!

    This very tall terrain piece will definitely catch the eye of passers by at a convention or game day

I highly recommend Bad Goblin Games 3-D printed scenery and buildings. I have more of it to be painted on my "short list," so you will likely see more from them here in the future. If you get a chance, please let me know what you think of the water tower and any changes you would suggest.

Miniature Painting & Purchasing Tally for 2024

• Miniatures acquired in 2024: 226
  
• Miniatures painted in 2024: 235  

Two Styles of Acheson Creations Barricades Painted Up

    Concrete barriers from Acheson Creations manned by some of my post-apocalyptic survivors

My favorite terrain manufacturer for many years was Acheson Creations. Through my decades of miniature gaming, I've bought many buildings, walls, scatter terrain, and more from this company, which unfortunately has stepped back from active production. There are a few companies out there, such as Miniature Building Authority, that carry some of their scatter terrain. Another was a regional vendor at local conventions, Armory Hobbies. At Drums at the Rapids this May, he also decided to hang up his business and was selling his remaining Acheson products at 50% off.

    I got 8 of the barriers for 50 cents each -- an awesome deal from a vendor going out of business

I snagged two types of barricades up there, among other items. I figured it was time to get them ready for the tabletop. I had no pressing need for them in an upcoming scenario, but these concrete barriers and tire and oil drum barricades are generic enough they'll fit with just about any modern, post-apocalyptic, or Sci-Fi period. The one thing you have to know about Acheson Creations products when painting them, though, is to beware the very strong mold release agent. I have always been able to remove it by placing the pieces in the dishwasher and running them on a quick cycle. This time, I made the mistake of not adding soap because we had switched from the powdered to the "pods," and I didn't want to use up a full pod. As Short Round said in my favorite quote, "Big mistake, Indy!"

    Concrete barriers can be used in various modern, post-apocalyptic &  Sci-Fi games -- you name it!

I detailed that a couple posts back when talking about the Acheson Sci-Fi building I had painted. Once taking them out of the dishwasher, I spray painted them with Krylon Fusion Acrylic Matte Black. I followed that up with my usual 50/50 mix of acrylic black paint and water. However, I noticed quickly that any light scratch or rough handling of the barriers was removing the black layer. D'oh, not again! I touched them up and decided to be even more careful handling them during the painting progress. I would definitely NOT be using the same clear coat sealant on them as I did on the Sci-Fi building!

    What are the barriers keeping out? Zombies? Rival gangs? It's up to you and your scenario...

Anyway, painting the concrete barriers was easy and quick. I did a medium to dark gray wet brush, then a lighter gray dry brush. I went over them with my black wash, and then did the bases my usual brown ground color. I painted the surface of the ground with white glue and then sprinkled on Woodland Scenics Blended Earth Turf. After it dried, I did a couple green grass patches and glued in some clump foliage, as well. I went back and forth whether to put graffiti on the barriers. However, I felt this would make them a bit less generic, so decided to keep them plain. Finally, rather than spray sealant on these pieces, I painted them and the flocking with a 50/50 mix of white glue and water. Hopefully, that does the trick on protecting them from wear and scratches!

    I bought six of the tire and oil drum barricades at Drums 2024 - should I have bought more?

The tire and oil drum barriers took a few more steps, of course. I prepped them exactly like the others (yes, they were in the same dishwasher batch as the Sci-Fi building and the concrete barriers). Once ready for the brush, I did a wet brush of a dark gray over the tires. I followed that up with a medium gray dry brush. Finally, I painted the rims on the tires in Iron Wind Metals Steel. 

    It was a great idea to design these pieces as Acheson did -- they look realistic and convincing!

Switching to the oil drums, I pulled out six colors: pale blue, pale green, Parchment Yellow, terra cotta, tan, and a lighter gray. I did the math. There were four oil drums on each barricade piece and six pieces. That's 24 drums to paint. So, I used each color on four drums -- never using the same color twice on a single section. I tried my best to mix it up, so the green and blue ones weren't always together, and so on. I let them dry overnight and then dry brushed them in an appropriate lighter color.

    I was happy with the rust effect on the oil drums -- these are very handy and versatile terrain pieces!

Finally, it was time for a rust effect on the drums. I pulled out my brown Rust color (appropriately enough), and did various splotches and speckles and lines of rust to match what I saw in some Google Image searches. Once dry, I used my bright international hunter orange and dabbed specks of it inside the rust. Finally, the drums and tires got a black wash. This was followed up by flocking them with just the blended turf. Both the flocking and the paint was sealed in with a 50/50 mix of white glue and water. I'm thinking this worked. I believe I have averted the disaster of not sufficiently getting rid of the mold release agent before painting.

The pieces look great on the tabletop. It was nice to be painting Acheson products, again. I understand Craig Acheson's desire to retire -- heck, I'm retired! I just miss his excellent, easy-to-paint, affordably priced terrain...!

What's up next? I have six 28mm Sci-Fi figures that I have begun sitting on my desk right now. They're meant to be random figures that could be used by a number of factions. They're definitely unusual figures, so I'm looking forward to how they turn out.

Miniature Painting & Purchasing Tally for 2024

• Miniatures acquired in 2024: 226
  
• Miniatures painted in 2024: 208